ctly
speaking, the characteristic architecture, art and costuming of the late
Middle Ages (twelfth to fifteenth centuries).

But we find the so-called Gothic outline in costume as early as the
fourth century. Over the undraped, one-piece robe of classic type, a
second garment is now worn, cut with straight lines. It usually fastens
behind, and the uncorseted figure is outlined. The neck is still
collarless and cut round, the space filled in with a necklace. The
sleeves of the tunic appear to be the logical evolution of the folds of
the toga, which fall over the arms when bent. They cling to the outline
of the shoulder, broadening at the hand into what is called "angel"
sleeves; in art, the traditional angel wears them.

Roman-Christian women wore their hair parted, no Psyche knot, and
interesting, large earrings. The gowns were not draped, but were in one
piece and with no fulness. A tunic, following lines of the form, reached
below the knees and was _belted_. This garment was trimmed with bands
from shoulders to hem of tunic and kept the same width throughout, if
narrow; but if wide, the bands broadened to the hem. The neck continued
to be cut round, and filled in with a necklace.

The cape, fastening on shoulders or chest, remnant of the Greek toga,
was worn, and veils of various materials were the usual head coverings.

Between the fifth and tenth centuries there are examples of the
overgarment or tunic having a broad stomacher of some contrasting
material, held in place with a cord, which is tied behind, brought
around to the front, knotted and allowed to hang to bottom of skirt.

Byzantine art between 800 and 1000 A. D. still shows women wearing
tunics, but hanging straight from neck to hem of skirt, fastened on
shoulders and opened at sides to show gown beneath; close sleeves with
trimming at the wrists, often large, roughly cut jewels forming a border
on tunic, and the hair worn in long braids on each side of the face; the
coil of hair, which was wrapped with pearls or other beads, was parted
and used to frame the face.

This fashion was carried to excess by the Franks. We see some of their
women between 400 and 600 A. D. wearing these heavy, rope-like braids to
the hem of the skirt in front.

In the fourteenth century the Gothic costume was perhaps at its most
beautiful stage. The long robe, the upper part following the lines of
the figure, with long close sleeves half covering hands, or flowing
sleeves,