the comber board, second by
loops which pass under the lower threads and over a small stick or lease
rod, and lastly by passing over and under, or around, other lease rods.
These are rolled away as the work progresses.

[17] _Morinda Bracteata Roxb_.

[18] Woof threads are generally of one color. A somewhat similar process
used in Java is described by SIR THOS. RAFFLES in The History of Java,
Vol. I, p. 189.

[Transcriber's note: Although footnote 2 appears on the same page as the
above paragraph, it is not clear to what particular part of that
paragraph it refers.]

After the cloth is removed from the loom it is polished. A long pole of
_palma brava_ is fitted into a notch in the roof. The operator seats
herself on the floor with a smooth board before her, or in her lap, and
on it places the dampened cloth. A shell is fitted over the lower end of
the pole, which is bent and made bowlike, until the shell rests on the
cloth. It is then ironed rapidly to and fro until the fabric has
received a high polish (Plate XXIV).

The woman's duties do not end with the manufacture of cloth, for all the
garments worn by the members of the tribe are the result of her
handiwork. She sews the strips of hemp cloth into skirts, men's
trousers, carrying bags, and sometimes into jackets. The women devote
hours of labor to these jackets, covering arms, necks, and waist bands
with colored embroidery or designs in applique, while on the better
garments they place elaborate designs in beads or shell disks.

After the evening meal is over the women of the household gather around
the flickering lights, and until far into the night work on these
garments, bead necklaces, or other ornaments.

Only a few of the weavers attempt to make the peculiar chocolate-colored
head covering worn by the _magani_. For these kerchiefs the woman weaves
a square cotton cloth of the desired size, and at one corner attaches a
small brass hook. Joined to the hook, by means of a chain, is a loop
which fits over the toes of the operator, thus enabling her to keep the
fabric taut while her hands are left free for work. Small sections of
this cloth are raised and are wrapped with waxed thread, so that when
the fabric is dyed these portions will not receive the coloring matter
(Plate XXV). Later the overtying is removed, leaving small white rings
or squares on a chocolate-colored background. These cloths are meant
primarily for the warriors, but expert weavers, who