poised above us, then crashed down with the shock of an
earthquake.

Stunned, I emerged from a smother of water to find our canoe
completely under the waves, kept afloat solely by grace of the
outrigger. All hands were overside, clinging to the edge of the
submerged craft, while Exploding Eggs and I bailed for our lives.
Strong swimmers, they held us off-shore until we had so lowered the
water that they could resume the oars.

For two hours we tossed about, while the chief held the steering-oar
and his men paddled through a welter of jeweled color that
threatened momentarily to toss us on the rocks. If we smashed on
them we were dead men, for even had we been able to climb them the
high tide would have drowned us against the wall of the cliffs. No
man showed the slightest fear, though they pulled like giants and
obeyed instantly each order of the chief.

Battling in this fashion, we rounded at last Point Teaehoa and won
the protection of the Bay of Traitors. I, at least, felt
immeasurable relief, that quickly turned to exhilaration as we
hoisted sail and drove at a glorious speed straight through the
breakers to the welcoming beach of Atuona.

CHAPTER IX

The Marquesans at ten o'clock mass; a remarkable conversation about
religions and Joan of Arc in which Great Fern gives his idea of the
devil.

I was surprised to note that the few natives within view when we
landed were dressed in the stiff and awkward clothes of the European;
some fete must have been arranged during my absence, I thought. Then
with a shock I realized that the day was Sunday. In the lovely,
timeless valley of Vait-hua the calendar had dropped below the
horizon of memory as my native land had dropped below the rim of the
sea. Here in Atuona, whose life was colored by the presence of whites,
the days must take up their constricted regular march again.

Already through the crystal air of a morning after rain the mission
bells were ringing clear, and Chief Neo, forgetting the night of
toil and danger past, was eager to accompany me to church. It would
be an honor befitting his chiefly rank to sit with the distinguished
white man in the house of worship, and I, remembering his perfect
hospitality, was glad to do him honor in my own valley.

We hastened to my cabin, Exploding Eggs running before us up the
trail with my luggage balanced on his shoulders. Cocoanuts and
_popoi_, coffee and tinned biscuits, were waiting when we arrived.
We a