high tower stands over the entrance door, at the west end of the
church. The organ and choir (at the same end) rendered the finest music
that I heard in England. There were several very highly cultivated voices
among those of the half dozen ladies that occupied the space in front of
the organ.

Everything else about the services is eminently examplery of the olden
times. Preaching is the least important part of the exercises. Pulpit
oratory finds no place here. Singing, praying and readings are the leading
feature of worship in the English Church in general, and of old churches
like this, in particular. Such exercises seem to be eminently appropriate
for a people whose hearts and minds are almost petrified in civil and
religious forms and ceremonies. The step which the English Church took
away from Catholicism, must have been an extremely short one, if it was a
step at all. This congregation still turn their faces toward the east,
during a certain part of their recitals, and bow ceremoniously, in
concert, as often, as they mention the name of "Jesus Christ."

Two miles from Warwich, is Leamington, (L[)e]m'ington), a fashionable
"spa," which I visited in the afternoon. It is a very pretty town, and
emphatically modern in style; presenting nothing that is anti-American in
appearance, except its clusters of chimney-tops, so common everywhere in
Europe. As soon as one has crossed the Atlantic he will seldom longer see
single square tops built upon the chimneys, but each apartment of the
house has its own chimney; all these converge, but do not meet before
coming out of the roof, so that from two to six or eight tops generally
keep each other company on the house-tops.

At 3:45 p.m., I started from Warwick for Coventry. The road leading from
this place to Coventry is an excellent turnpike, just as that is from
Stratford hither, and has a splendid gravel walk for pedestrians on one
side, and a riding path for those on horseback, on the other side.

Five miles brought me to Kenilworth Castle. Great must have been its
glories when Elizabeth came here in 1575 to visit Liecester. Cromwell
dismantled it, and laid waste the gardens around it, and the tooth of time
has been gnawing at it ever since, but it is magnificent even in its
ruins. "Go round about it, tell the towers thereof, and mark well its
bulwarks, if you would know what a mighty fortress it must have been when
it held out for half a year against Henry III. in 1266, o