cavities where they had lain, and the figures of the deceased in their
death-struggle are thus obtained. Baedeker devotes 25 pages to a
description of the wonders and curiosities of this exhumed town.

The ascent of Vesuvius required about six hours. We started at 6:30 in the
morning and returned at 12:30 p.m. The distance from Pompeii, which stands
at its foot, to the top of it is about 5 miles in a straight line, and
eight miles by the paths. Mules can ascend half-way; but I took a guide
and walked the whole distance. At the point where the mules must be
abandoned, a number of guides offered to carry me up, or to drag me up by
means of a rope! But I climbed it. A cloud hangs over it all the time,
which is occasioned by the column of steam that issues from its crater.
The entire upper part of the peak is perfectly bare of vegetation, and
covered with fine cinders, rapilli, &c., through which escapes a gas that
almost suffocates the ascending traveler. At the top we shouted into the
crater and heard distinct echos after two seconds, which proves that the
mouth of the crater reflected the sound at the depth of about 1,000 or
1,100 feet!

From Pompeii I returned to Naples and spent the night there. Early on
Thursday morning I went to the "Stazione" (Station) and left for Brindisi.
The temperature was 90 degrees in the shade, in the afternoon. Some people
have constructed artificial caves which they use as stables, for their
cattle; and possibly some have such rude grottos for their homes!

Chapter XX.

On the Mediterranean.

On Monday morning, September 26th, at 4:00 o'clock a.m., I stepped on
board the steamship "Avoca" to take passage for Alexandria. Brindisi, like
Havre, is one of the finest places in the world to leave! Almost
everything about it is repulsive. I saw many children there that have
possibly never seen a washing day in their lives! I sailed for Egypt with
great reluctance, for I had already my misgivings about the property of
tourists from civilized nations going thither for sight-seeing. Well one
does see sights there--but, _such sights_!

Our voyage to Egypt was a very prosperous and, I may say, a pleasant one.
Time, some eighty hours. As first and second class passage is unreasonably
high, boarding costing $9--$10 per day, I took third class passage, and
with a special outlay of a few dollars obtained acceptable meals. The
steamer belonged to an English line, and it was one of the most p