indifference.
He has everything he wants, he has little or no care, seemingly; he
is content to let things drift, and keeps his mind easy. If he were
only waked up he might do much for his countrymen.

'My second visit was to a temple and cluster of tents, where I
found some old acquaintances; was politely received, but nothing
more.

'My third visit was to another cluster of tents, where I was at
once hailed as the doctor, and, _nolens volens_, compelled to
examine and prescribe for a number of diseases. Some cures
accomplished years before explained the enthusiasm of the friends
there, but for spiritual results I looked in vain.

'My next expedition was to a place some miles--say eight--away.
Some years ago, in stormy weather, Mrs. Gilmour and I, soaked out
of our tent, had found shelter in the mud-house of a Mongol, who
refused to take anything for the use of his building, remarking
that we would be going and coming that way afterwards, and that
then we might give him a present of some foreign article or other.
I had sent him a few things, but had never since personally visited
him, and when I reached the settlement I was grieved to find that
the old man was dead. His son, a lad of twenty-three, had succeeded
to his estate, and his small official dignity and emoluments, and
received me in a most remarkably friendly way. He was just starting
from home, but on seeing me gave up all idea of his going away,
and, insisting on my staying in his tent for the night, spent the
remainder of the day with me.

'Next day, slinging on one side a postman's brown bag containing my
kit and provisions; on the other an angler's waterproof bag, with
books, &c.; and carrying from a stick over my shoulder a Chinaman's
sheepskin coat, I left my landlord drinking the two ounces of hot
Chinese whisky which formed the invariable introduction to his
breakfast turned my face northwards, and started for a twenty-three
miles' walk to the settlement which, for some summers in
succession, has furnished me with men and oxen for my annual
journeys. Now the Mongols are familiar with the

Russians, who, as tea-agents, reside in Kalgan; they have seen many
passing foreign travellers on horses, camels, and in carts; they
have seen missionary journeys performed on donk