e the ladies before the house, and
we came back by moonlight, the sky piled full of high faint clouds that
long preserved some of the radiance of the sunset. The lagoon was very
shallow; we continually struck, for the moon was young and the light
baffling; and for a long time we were accompanied by, and passed and
repassed, a huge whale-boat from Savaii, pulling perhaps twelve oars,
and containing perhaps forty people who sang in time as they went. So
to the hotel, where we slept, and returned the next Tuesday morning on
the three same steeds.

Meanwhile my business was still untransacted. And on Saturday morning, I
sent down and arranged with Charlie Taylor to go down that afternoon. I
had scarce got the saddle-bags fixed and had not yet mounted, when the
rain began. But it was no use delaying now; off I went in a wild
waterspout to Apia; found Charlie (Sale) Taylor--a sesquipedalian young
half-caste--not yet ready, had a snack of bread and cheese at the hotel
while waiting him, and then off to Malie. It rained all the way, seven
miles; the road, which begins in triumph, dwindles down to a nasty,
boggy, rocky footpath with weeds up to a horseman's knees; and there are
eight pig fences to jump, nasty beastly jumps--the next morning we found
one all messed with blood where a horse had come to grief--but my Jack
is a clever fencer; and altogether we made good time, and got to Malie
about dark. It is a village of very fine native houses, high, domed,
oval buildings, open at the sides, or only closed with slatted
Venetians. To be sure, Mataafa's is not the worst. It was already quite
dark within, only a little fire of cocoa-shell blazed in the midst and
showed us four servants; the chief was in his chapel, whence we heard
the sound of chaunting. Presently he returned; Taylor and I had our
soaking clothes changed, family worship was held, kava brewed, I was
exhibited to the chiefs as a man who had ridden through all that rain
and risked deportation to serve their master; they were bidden learn my
face, and remember upon all occasions to help and serve me. Then dinner,
and politics, and fine speeches until twelve at night--O, and some more
kava--when I could sit up no longer; my usual bed-time is eight, you
must remember. Then one end of the house was screened off for me alone,
and a bed made--you never saw such a couch--I believe of nearly fifty
(half at least) fine mats, by Mataafa's daughter, Kalala. Here I
reposed alone;