In spite of the half-incongruous notes of these different metallic
voices floating together on the atmosphere, there was a sense of harmony
in the aggregate of sound, which recalled the more musical chimes one
hears on the shores of the Mediterranean. Mexican churches are not
supplied with chimes, though each steeple has at least a half dozen, and
often as many as a score, of costly bells.

Here and there the town shows unmistakable tokens of age, which is but
reasonable, as it was founded in 1520. The variety of colors used upon
the facades of the low adobe houses produces a pleasing effect. The love
of the Aztec race for warm, bright colors is seen everywhere. The Garden
of San Marcos, one of many open public squares, forms a wilderness of
foliage and flowers, where the oleanders are thirty feet in height,
shading lilies, roses, and pansies, with a low-growing species of
mignonette as fragrant as violets, our admiration for which was shared
by a score of glittering humming-birds. Here too the jasmine, with its
tiny variegated flowers, flourished by the side of hydrangeas full of
snow-flake bloom, while orange blossoms made the air heavy with their
odorous breath. Close to this garden is the bull ring, opposite to which
gangs of convicts are seen sweeping the streets under the supervision of
a military guard. Though these men are unchained, they make no attempt
to escape, as the guards under such circumstances have a habit of
promptly shooting a prisoner dead upon the spot; no one takes the
trouble to inquire into the summary proceeding, and it would do no good
if he did. There is no sickly sentimentality expended upon highwaymen,
garroters, or murderers in Mexico. If a man commits a crime, he is made
to pay the penalty for it, no matter what his position may be. There is
no pardoning out of prison here, so that the criminal may have a second
chance to outrage the rights of the community. If a trusted individual
steals the property of widows and orphans and runs away, he must stay
away, for if he comes back he will surely be shot. All things
considered, we believe this certainty of punishment is the restraining
force with many men of weak principles. Since the order to shoot all
highwaymen as soon as taken was promulgated, brigandage has almost
entirely disappeared in Mexico, though up to that time it was of daily
occurrence in some parts of the country.

There are several churches in Aguas Calientes which are well wor