. It
imparts its colour to everything. The houses have the earth tint; the
bronze complexion of the fellahs recalls it; the trees covered with fine
dust, the waters laden with mud, conform to that fundamental harmony;
the animals themselves wear its livery; the dun-coloured camel, the gray
ass, the slate-blue buffalo, the ash-coloured pigeon, and the reddish
birds all fit in with the general tone.

Another thing which surprises one is the animation visible throughout
the country. On the levees along the canals and on those which traverse
the inundated portions, there moves a mob of passers-by and of
travellers. There is no road so frequented in France, even in the
neighbourhood of a populous city. Eastern people do not remain much in
their houses, and the smallest pretext is sufficient for them to set
forth, especially as they have not to think, as we have, of the weather;
the barometer is always at set fair, and rain is so uncommonly rare that
a man would be glad to get a soaking.

There is nothing more enjoyable, more varied and instructive than the
procession of people who are going about their business and who show in
succession in the opening of the carriage window, as in a frame in which
engravings or water-colours are constantly changing.

First, camels ambling along with a resigned and melancholy look,
swinging their long necks, curious animals whose awkward shapes recall
the attempts of a vanished creation. On the hump of the foremost is
perched the turbaned driver, as majestic as Eleazar, the servant of
Abraham, going to Mesopotamia to seek a wife for Isaac; he yields with
lazy suppleness to the rough, but regular motions of the animal;
sometimes smoking his chibouque as if he were seated at the door of a
cafe, or pressing the slow pace of his steed. Camels like to go in
single file; they are accustomed to it, and five or six are usually tied
together, sometimes even more; and thus the caravan travels along,
showing quaint against the flat lines of the horizon, and for want of
any object of comparison, apparently of vast size. On either side of the
line trot three or four swift-footed lads, armed with wands; for in the
East beasts of burden never lack hostlers and whippers-in. Some of the
camels are reddish, others sorrel, others brown, some even are white,
but dun is the most frequent colour. They carry stones, wood, grass
bound with esparto cords, bundles of sugar-cane, boxes, furniture,--in
fact, whateve