are to be tenoned on the upper ends. These tenons are to
project 3/16 in. above the arm and should be slightly beveled. The lower
ends of the posts, likewise, all other projecting ends, should be
beveled to avoid their splintering. All sharp corners, as on the arms,
should be sandpapered just enough to take their sharpness off, so as not
to injure the hand.

That the chair may be properly inclined, the rear posts are cut 1 in.
shorter than the forward ones. To get the correct slant on the bottoms
of these posts, lay a straightedge so that its edge touches the bottom
of the front post at its front surface, but keep it 1 in. above the
bottom of the rear post. Mark with pencil along the straightedge across
both posts.

[Illustration: Complete Morris Chair Without Cushion]

[Illustration: Details of a Morris Chair]

At the rear ends of the arms are the notched pieces that allow the back
to be adjusted to different angles. These pieces may be fastened in
place either by means of roundhead screws from above or flatheads from
underneath the arms. The notches are to be cut 3/4 in. deep. If more
than three adjustments are wanted, the arms must be made correspondingly
longer.

The dimensions for the tenons on all the larger pieces will be found on
the drawing. For the back, the tenons of the cross pieces, the rails,
should be 3/8 by 1-1/4-in. For the slats, the easiest way is to not
tenon them but to "let in" the whole end, making the mortises in the
rails 3/8 by 1-1/2 in. This will necessitate cutting the sides of the
mortises very accurately, but this extra care will be more than
compensated by not having to bother with the cutting of tenons on each
end of the three back slats.

To finish the chair, put on a coat of water stain, first removing all
surplus glue and thoroughly scraping and sandpapering all the parts that
were not so treated at the mill. The color of the stain will depend upon
the finish desired, whether golden, mission, etc. Water stains cause the
grain of the wood to roughen, so it will be necessary to resandpaper the
surfaces after the stain has dried, using fine paper. Next apply a coat
of filler colored to match the stain. Directions for its application
will be found upon the cans in which the filler comes. After the filler
has hardened put on a very thin coat of shellac.

What step is taken next will depend upon what kind of a surface is
desired. Several coats of polishing wax may be put on. This is