e exception of the keys and cleats, are 1/2
in. longer than necessary for squaring up the ends.

The two rails are cut slanting from a point 1-1/2 in. from each end to
the center, making them only 3 in. wide in the middle. The rails are
"let into" the edges of the ends so the outside of the rails and end
boards will be flush. The joints are put together with glue and screws.
The cleats are fastened with screws to the inside of the rails and to
the top. The stretcher has a tenon cut on each end which fits into a
mortise cut in each end. The tenons will have sufficient length to cut
the small mortise for the key.

[Illustration]

The kind of wood used will determine the color of the stain for the
finish. This also depends on matching other pieces of furniture.

HOW TO MAKE A MISSION SHAVING STAND

This attractive and useful piece of mission furniture will be
appreciated by the person that does his own shaving. The shaving stand
can be made at home by a handy man in his spare time as the stock can be
ordered from a mill ready for making the joints and attaching the few
pieces of hardware. The following is a stock list of materials:

4 posts 1-1/2 in. square by 50-1/2 in.
4 slats 7/8 by 1 by 32-1/2 in.
2 cross rails 1 by 1-1/2 by 15 in.
2 end rails 1 by 1-1/2 by 13 in.
1 top 7/8 by 16-1/2 by 19-1/2 in.
1 bottom 7/8 by 15 by 17 in.
2 ends 7/8 by 12-1/2 in. square.
1 back 7/8 by 12-1/2 by 14-1/2 in.
1 door 7/8 by 6-1/2 by 12-1/2 in.
2 drawer ends 7/8 by 5-1/2 by 7-1/2 in.
1 partition 7/8 by 12 by 14 in.
1 partition 7/8 by 7 by 14 in.
7 pieces of soft wood 1/2 by 7-1/2 by 12 in.
2 posts 1 in. square by 10-1/2 in.
1 bottom piece 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 18-1/2 in.
4 mirror frame pieces 7/8 by 1-1/2 by 14-1/2 in.
2 sticks for pins.
2 hinges
1 lock
2 drawer pulls
1 beveled glass mirror 11-1/2 by 11-1/2 in.

While this piece of furniture can be made in any kind of wood, the
novice will find that quarter-sawed oak will work up and finish better
than the other woods. The stock list given has dimensions 1/2 in. larger
in some instances for dressing and squaring where necessary.

[Illustration]

The tenons and mortises are first cut for the crosspieces at the bottom
of the posts, and, as it is best to use dowels at the top, holes are
bored in the bottom piece and also the ends of the slats for pins. The
bottom piece is also fastened to the posts with dowels. The bottom must