e place is
pleasant enough, there being a good well of water. A little temporary
village stands near, composed of the women and children belonging to the
salt-caravan.

_18th._--We halted again another day. After this rest of three days for
the camels, we are to go on quicker. Overweg paid a visit to the
temporary village, principally to see the women, taking with him the
Malem Ibrahim. He was pleasantly received, and notes the fact as the
first specimen of Soudan hospitality. I also made an excursion of an
hour to a neighbouring eminence, where I had a view from the top of a
quartz rock of the surrounding landscape of stony hills and valleys. On
the east and west were ranges and groups of mountains; on the north-east
and towards Bilma, and on the south-west round the mountain of Baghzem,
the country appeared open. North and south were rocks. In the direction
of our route (south-east) the rocks seem scattered and at wide
distances, so I expect we shall soon bid farewell to the mountains of
Aheer. The celebrated mount of Baghzem is a mighty mass of rock, not
high, but apparently of immense breadth. The town of Baghzem is on the
western side, and out of our route.

I had a little clandestine transaction with Madame En-Noor to-day. She
sent me cheese and milk, and I sent her a ring. The slaves brought the
cheese stealthily: so, I suppose, the Sultan was not to know of it. But
they say that all the goats belong to the women, and, consequently, the
milk and cheese; but the camels to the men; some women, however, have
camels. There is a sort of division of male and female property in this
country.

CHAPTER VIII.

We continue our Journey--Huntsmen--Gum on the Tholukhs--The
Salt-Caravan--A Bunch of Gum--Games among the
Slaves--Baghzem--Trees--Palm of Pharaoh--Deserted Villages--Birds'
Nests--Wife of En-Noor--Unan--Lizards--Bad News--Christmas
day in Africa--Christmas-boxes--Begging Tuaricks
again--Bargot--Musicians--Speculations--Tribes at War--Parasitical
Plant--Importance of Salt--Animals--Agalgo--Force of the Caravan--Beat
of Drum--Approach the Hamadah--Giraffes--Poisoned Arrows--Ear of
Ghaseb--Soudan and Bornou Roads.

_Dec. 19th._--We started early, and journeyed on eight hours and
a-half--the best day we have had since leaving Tintalous. Our course
still towards that immense block of mountain, the celebrated Baghzem. We
are now encamped along its side. We crossed a large wady with
ancient-looking trees, ha