r detachment of the salt-caravan passed or crossed
us, and took another route to the east. Our course was always
southwards, now S.E. now S.W., through wadys filled with trees, mostly
tholukh and its varieties; the rocks were all granite. Aheer appears to
be a region essentially of granite, although here and there are volcanic
cones striking up, composed of basalt, or a variety of this stone. The
weather was very cloudy and cold, only a little warm in the middle of
the day. We have not come to water or wells for three days, because our
journeys are very short. To-day I saw, for the first time, the indigo
plant--_neela_ in Arabic, and _bala_ in Soudanese. I was glad to make
its acquaintance. It grows amongst the other herbage, and may be easily
confounded with it as a common herb. It is now in seed, the pods being
small and very hard. This is one of the products capable of working the
regeneration of Africa, if Africa is to be civilised by legitimate
commerce.

En-Noor asked to-day if, on entering Constantinople, we English made
presents. I told him very positively, "No;" but, on the contrary,
everything which the English demanded of the Sultan of the Turks he did
for us; and because the Sultan was weak, England was obliged to protect
him against the encroachments of the other Christian nations.

I was much surprised to hear to-day that En-Noor begged a black burnouse
from Barth. The old Sheikh is a Tuarick every inch of him. Nevertheless,
it is too bad to beg the things which we wear to protect us from the
cold and the heat. Barth, I believe, has not yet made the Sheikh a
present, and he is coming Hateetah over my worthy friend. Overweg has
given the Sheikh a cloth jacket, which he could ill spare. I feel most
determinedly disposed to give nothing more; but in justice I have to
add, that his highness sends regularly the milk in the morning, that he
gave me a piece of gour-nut on the road, and that he sent me a few dates
at my request! These are great things for Tuaricks; so, "patience."

_16th._--I rose at daylight; the cold was moderate, morning foggy as
yesterday. People say we shall be only nine days from this going to
Damerghou, but I will give them twelve. All the old men in this country
apply to the Taleb for medicine to restore their powers. They very
unwillingly relinquish the exercise of the functions which give them
most delight; but nature is stronger than all things, and they must
submit to its inevitable