r them.
Cover up with fresh leaves, and let the whole remain till quite cold.
Now tie down closely with bladder to exclude the air, and in a month or
two, they will be fit for use.

_Time_.--4 days.

_Seasonable_ from the middle of July to the end of August.

[Illustration: GHERKINS.]

GHERKINS.--Gherkins are young cucumbers; and the only way in
which they are used for cooking purposes is pickling them, as by
the recipe here given. Not having arrived at maturity, they have
not, of course, so strongly a developed flavour as cucumbers,
and, as a pickle, they are very general favourites.

GOOSEBERRY SAUCE FOR BOILED MACKEREL.

429. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of green gooseberries, 3 tablespoonfuls of
Bechamel, No. 367 (veal gravy may be substituted for this), 2 oz. of
fresh butter; seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.--Boil the gooseberries in water until quite tender; strain them,
and rub them through a sieve. Put into a saucepan the Bechamel or gravy,
with the butter and seasoning; add the pulp from the gooseberries, mix
all well together, and heat gradually through. A little pounded sugar
added to this sauce is by many persons considered an improvement, as the
saccharine matter takes off the extreme acidity of the unripe fruit.

_Time_.--Boil the gooseberries from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a large dish of mackerel.

_Seasonable_ from May to July.

[Illustration: THE GOOSEBERRY.]

THE GOOSEBERRY.--This useful and wholesome fruit (_Ribes
grossularia_) is thought to be indigenous to the British Isles,
and may be occasionally found in a wild state in some of the
eastern counties, although, when uncultivated, it is but a very
small and inferior berry. The high state of perfection to which
it has been here brought, is due to the skill of the English
gardeners; for in no other country does it attain the same size
and flavour. The humidity of the British climate, however, has
doubtless something to do with the result; and it is said that
gooseberries produced in Scotland as far north as Inverness, are
of a very superior character. Malic and citric acid blended with
sugar, produce the pleasant flavour of the gooseberry; and upon
the proper development of these properties depends the success
of all cooking operations with which they are connected.

GLAZE FOR COVERING COLD HAMS, TONGUES,