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o streams. They are in season about the end of April, and gradually improve till February, when they attain their highest condition. In that month, when just taken, scotched (crimped), and broiled, they are said to be more palatable than a fresh herring. THE ROACH.--This fish is found throughout Europe, and the western parts of Asia, in deep still rivers, of which it is an inhabitant. It is rarely more than a pound and a half in weight, and is in season from September till March. It is plentiful in England, and the finest are caught in the Thames. The proverb, "as sound as a roach," is derived from the French name of this fish being _roche_, which also means rock. [Illustration: THE DACE.] [Illustration: THE ROACH.] TO DRESS CRAB. 244. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 1 ditto of oil; salt, white pepper, and cayenne, to taste. _Mode_.--Empty the shells, and thoroughly mix the meat with the above ingredients, and put it in the large shell. Garnish with slices of cut lemon and parsley. The quantity of oil may be increased when it is much liked. (See Coloured Plate I.) _Average cost_, from 10d. to 2s. _Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons. TO CHOOSE CRAB.--The middle-sized crab is the best; and the crab, like the lobster, should be judged by its weight; for if light, it is watery. HOT CRAB. 245. INGREDIENTS.--1 crab, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, 3 oz. of butter, 1/4 lb. of bread crumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. _Mode_.--After having boiled the crab, pick the meat out from the shells, and mix with it the nutmeg and seasoning. Cut up the butter in small pieces, and add the bread crumbs and vinegar. Mix altogether, put the whole in the large shell, and brown before the fire or with a salamander. _Time_.--1 hour. _Average cost_, from 10d. to 2s. _Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in May, June, and July. _Sufficient_ for 3 persons. [Illustration: THE CRAB.] THE CRAB TRIBE.--The whole of this tribe of animals have the body covered with a hard and strong shell, and they live chiefly in the sea. Some, however, inhabit fresh waters, and a few live upon land. They feed variously, on aquatic or marine plants, small fish, molluscae, or dead bodies. The _black-clawed_ species is found on the rocky coasts of both Europe and India, an
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