food, no
artificial colour is required; but in winter, under stall-feeding, the
colour is white and tallowy, and some persons prefer a higher colour.
This is communicated by mixing a little finely-powdered arnotto with the
cream before putting it into the churn; a still more, natural and
delicate colour is communicated by scraping a red carrot into a clean
piece of linen cloth, dipping it into water, and squeezing it into the
cream.

2367. As soon as the butter comes, the milk is poured off, and the
butter put into a shallow wooden tub or bowl, full of pure spring water,
in which it is washed and kneaded, pouring off the water, and renewing
it until it comes away perfectly free from milk. Imperfect washing is
the frequent cause of bad butter, and in nothing is the skill of the
dairy-maid tested more than in this process; moreover, it is one in
which cleanliness of habits and person are most necessary. In this
operation we want the aid of Phyllis's neat, soft, and perfectly clean
hand; for no mechanical operation can so well squeeze out the sour
particles of milk or curd.

2368. The operations of churning and butter-making over, the butter-milk
is disposed of: usually, in England, it goes to the pigs; but it is a,
very wholesome beverage when fresh, and some persons like it; the
disposal, therefore, will rest with the mistress: the dairy-maid's duty
is to get rid of it. She must then scald with boiling water and scrub
out every utensil she has used; brush out the churn, clean out the
cream-jars, which will probably require the use of a little common soda
to purify; wipe all dry, and place them in a position where the sun can
reach them for a short time, to sweeten them.

2369. In Devonshire, celebrated for its dairy system, the milk
is always scalded. The milk-pans, which are of tin, and contain
from 10 to 12 quarts, after standing 10 or 12 hours, are placed
on a hot plate of iron, over a stove, until the cream has formed
on the surface, which is indicated by the air-bubbles rising
through the milk, and producing blisters on the surface-coating
of cream. This indicates its approach to the boiling point: and
the vessel is now removed to cool. When sufficiently, that is,
quite cool, the cream is skimmed off with the slice: it is now
the clouted cream for which Devonshire is so famous. It is now
placed in the churn, and churned until the butter comes, which
it generally do