h. The cuja-tree, which I have already mentioned,
is of immense size. Its fruit is very much like that of a gourd of
spherical form, with a light-green shining surface, growing from the
size of an orange to that of the largest melon. It is filled with a
soft white pulp, easily removed when the fruit is cut in halves. The
Indians, I forgot to say, formed a number of cups and basins for us from
the rind of this fruit. From them also we had manufactured the
lifebuoys which I have described.

As we sailed along, numerous birds of the most gorgeous plumage were
seen either resting on the boughs or flying overhead across the stream.
Among them were several species of trogons and little bristle-tailed
manakins. We saw also the curious black umbrella-bird; which is so
called from having a hood like an umbrella spread over its head. Flocks
of paroquets were seen, and bright blue chatterers; and now and then a
lovely pompadour, having delicate white wings and claret-coloured
plumage. Monkeys of various sorts were scrambling among the boughs,
coming out to look at us, and chattering loudly as if to inquire why we
had come into their domains. Now and then we caught sight of a sloth
rolled up on a branch of an imbauba tree, on the leaves of which the
creature feeds; while butterflies of most brilliant hues and enormous
dragonflies were flitting about in the sunshine.

On and on we sailed, the passage between the trees now becoming narrower
every mile we progressed, till at length they appeared almost to close
us in, the branches completely interlacing overhead. Still, having gone
so far, Captain van Dunk was unwilling to turn back, unless certain that
there was no opening into some wider stream; but, from the depth of the
water and the absence of any strong current, he fully believed we should
meet with one. At length the branches extended so far across the
passage that we were compelled to unstep the mast in order to pass under
them. The sudden change from the bright glare of the open water to the
solemn gloom of the forest was very remarkable. We had now to paddle
slowly. We were frequently able to press our oars against the trunks of
the trees, and thus to shove the log ahead. Though accustomed to
tropical scenery, nothing we had before witnessed equalled the rich
luxuriance of the vegetation--the numberless strange trees, and hanging
plants, and creepers, and beautiful flowers of every hue, affording
abundance of