is one of the principal
commodities of Milan, and the plain silks of Lombardy are still
considered the best in Europe. Nature is very kind to these rich and
beautiful plains; it is still--

"Fruitful Lombardy,
The pleasant garden of great Italy."

I should think there are few places where vineyards exist so abundantly,
yet wine-making seems an industry little understood in modern Italy; or
has the flavour of her grapes undergone a change? Who can forget the
famous Falernian, quaffed by the emperors of Rome? At the present day,
Italian wines, cheap and abundant as they may be, are certainly poor in
quality. One would think wine-making was a lost art--at least, as
understood by the ancients.

But to return to the landscape scenery through which we were passing.
The plains and valleys are cooled and invigorated by numerous streams
and canals. Monza is the first station stopped at, a small town with
some 15,000 inhabitants. Its Cathedral is built on the site of a church
founded by the Lombard Queen Theodolinda, dedicated to St John the
Baptist. Monza has a Town-hall, and a royal summer Palace, both
possessing ancient interest. From here there is a line going to Lecco, a
point somewhat higher than Como, almost at the extremity of the eastern
fork of the lake Como, being situated at the extremity of the larger
western fork. The wedge-like point which separates these two branches,
called Bellagio, is charmingly situated, commanding the most lovely and
extensive scenery; it is, therefore, one of the most frequented spots in
the lake district.

After Monza, we pass through more than one tunnel, and several villages
and small towns of Roman foundation. Not one of these places seems to
have been overlooked by the ancients. They worked hard for the glory of
their great empire, and sought these quiet and beautiful spots so
favoured by Nature to recruit their strength and energy. But, as at
Tivoli near Rome, we see all along the shores, and on the way to these
Italian lakes, the proofs of their persevering activity and genius,
employed in the adornment of their summer retreats, leaving, after
centuries of time, sufficient to excite our wonder and admiration; and
to satisfy us that these great men of old knew both how to work and how
to enjoy themselves.

Como is quite an ideal little town, rich in reminiscences, and full of
life and beauty. The Cathedral is, next to that at Milan, the finest in
Northern I