ar and Tangier is by no means easy and
regular, though the places are only a few hours' distance from the
other. I had waited many days at Gib. (as our captain called the former
place), before the wind enabled us to leave, and then, our boat being a
small transport for cattle, and the Government contractors wanting beef
for the garrison--for an Englishman or an English soldier cannot live in
any part of the world without beef--we were compelled to leave with the
wind in our teeth, and to make a night's voyage of this four or five
hours' traverse. It might be worth while, one would think, to try a
small steam-tug for the conveyance of cattle from Tangier to our
garrison, which, besides, would be a great convenience for passengers.

On coming on deck in the morning, Tangier, "the city protected of the
Lord," appeared in all its North African lineaments, white and bright,
shining, square masses of masonry, domes of fair and modest santos, and
the heaven-pointing minarets; here and there a graceful palm, a dark
olive, or the black bushy kharoub, and all denned sharply and clearly in
the goodly prospect. But these Barbary towns had lost much of their
freshness or novelty to me, and novelty is the greatest ingredient of
our pleasure in foreign travel. I had also just travelled through Spain,
and the south of this country is still, as to its aspect, part and
parcel of Morocco, though it is severed by the Straits. In the ancient
Moorish city of Cordova, I had even saluted the turban. I met two Moors
strolling along, with halting steps and triste mien, through the
streets, whom I instinctively addressed.

"_Wein mashe. Ash tomel_. Where are you going? What are you doing?"

The Moors (greatly pleased to hear the sound of their own mother-tongue
in the land of their pilgrimage).--"_Net jerrej_. We are enjoying
ourselves."

Traveller.--"What do you think of the country (Cordova)?"

The Moors.--"This is the land of our fathers."

Traveller.--"Well, what then? Are you going to possess it again?"

The Moors.--"Of what country are you?"

Traveller.--"Engleez."

The Moors (brightening up).--"That is good. Yes, we are very glad. We
thought you might be a Spaniard, or a Frenchman. Now we'll tell you all;
we don't fear. God will give us this country again, when Seedna Aisa [4]
comes to deliver us from these curse-smitten dogs of Spaniards." [5]

Traveller.--"Well, never mind the Spaniards. Have you seen anything you
like here?"