personal interview with him, to which the Vice-Consul acceded.

The difficulties of travelling through Morocco; and of residing in the
inland towns have been already mentioned.

In further proof, Mr. Elton related that, whilst the merchants visited
the Emperor in the, southern capital, a watch-maker, a European and a
Christian, asked permission of the Minister to dwell in the quarter of
the Moors, instead of that of the Jews, in which latter the Europeans
usually reside.

The Minister replied, "you may live there if you like, but you must have
ten soldiers to guard you." Such a reply from the Minister, and whilst
the merchants were protected by the presence of the Emperor himself, is
all conclusive as to the insecurity attached to Europeans in the
interior towns.

Morocco itself is a city of profound gloom, where the Moor indulges to
the utmost his taciturn disposition, and melancholy fatalism. It is,
therefore, not an enchanting abode for Europeans, who, whilst there
waiting on the Emperor, are obliged constantly to ride about to preserve
their health, or they would die of the suffocating stench in the Jew's
millah, or quarter. But, in taking this equestrian exercise, they are
not unfrequently insulted. An ungallant cavalier deliberately stopped
Mrs. Elton by riding up against her.

The lady spurred her horse and caught with her feet a portion of his
light burnouse, dragging it away. He was only prevented riding after and
cutting her down, by one of the Emperor's secretaries, who was passing
by at the time.

Mr. Elton had a fine black horse to ride upon. The populace were so
savage at seeing an infidel mounted upon so splendid an animal, that
they hooted: "Curse you, Infidel! dismount you dog!"

These instances shew the sauciness of the vulgar, and are a fair example
of the conduct of the Moors. I am told by Barbary Jews, it would be next
to impossible for a Christian to walk without disguise in broad daylight
at Fez. Not so much from the hostility of the populace, as from their
indecent and vehement curiosity. However, in these cases, I am obliged
to give the testimony of others. Mr. Cohen, when travelling through the
interior, assumes the character of a quack doctor, the best passport in
all these countries. Practising as he goes, he manages to get enough to
bear his charges on the way.

Oliver Goldsmith piped, but in Morocco the traveller and stranger
physics his way. To Europeans, Mr. Cohen gives this adv