collar and his well-cut clothes,
with his frankness and whole-souled generosity, is a study to the modern
grisette. He seems strangely attractive to her, in contrast with a
certain type of Frenchman, that is selfish, unfaithful, and mean--that
jealousy makes uncompanionable and sometimes cruel. She will tell you
that these pale, black-eyed, and black-bearded boulevardiers are all
alike--lazy and selfish; so unlike many of the sterling, good fellows of
the Quarter--Frenchmen of a different stamp, and there are many of
these--rare, good Bohemians, with hearts and natures as big as all
out-doors--"bons garcons," which is only another way of saying
"gentlemen."

As you tramp along back to your quarters some rainy night you find many
of the streets leading from the boulevards silent and badly lighted,
except for some flickering lantern on the corner of a long block which
sends the shadows scurrying across your path. You pass a student perhaps
and a girl, hurrying home--a fiacre for a short distance is a luxury in
the Quarter. Now you hear the click-clock of an approaching cab, the
cocher half asleep on his box. The hood of the fiacre is up, sheltering
the two inside from the rain. As the voiture rumbles by near a
street-light, you catch a glimpse of a pink silk petticoat within and a
pair of dainty, white kid shoes--and the glint of an officer's sword.

Farther on, you pass a silent gendarme muffled in his night cloak; a few
doors farther on in a small cafe, a bourgeois couple, who have arrived
on a late train no doubt to spend a month with relatives in Paris, are
having a warming tipple before proceeding farther in the drizzling rain.
They have, of course, invited the cocher to drink with them. They have
brought all their pets and nearly all their household goods--two dogs,
three bird-cages, their tiny occupants protected from the damp air by
several folds of newspaper; a cat in a stout paper box with air holes,
and two trunks, well tied with rope.

[Illustration: (street market)]

"Ah, yes, it has been a long journey!" sighs the wife. Her husband
corroborates her, as they explain to the patronne of the cafe and to the
cocher that they left their village at midday. Anything over two hours
on the chemin-de-fer is considered a journey by these good French
people!

As you continue on to your studio, you catch a glimpse of the lights of
the Boulevard Montparnasse. Next a cab with a green light rattles by;
then a ponderou