, reckless of the flags, reckless of the procession, to look forth
upon the streets "with verdure clad." The popularity of the Sons of
Apollo was a thing of the past already! Nothing can well be imagined
more miserably ugly than the appearance of the trees, standing strung
into unnatural positions, and looking half dead already; but they
evidently inspired the liveliest public satisfaction. Women returned to
the windows to give a last perfecting tug to their branches; men patted
approvingly with spades the loose earth round their stems. Spectators,
one by one, took a near view and a distant view, and then walked gently
by and took an occasional view, and lastly gathered together in little
groups and took a general view. As connoisseurs look at their pictures,
as mothers look at their children, as lovers look at their
mistresses--so did the people of Fowey assemble with one accord and look
at their trees.

After all, however, I shall perhaps best illustrate the simplicity of
character displayed by the Cornish country-people, if I leave the less
amusing preparations for inaugurating the Fowey boat-race untold, and
describe some of the peculiarities of behaviour and remark which the
appearance of my companion and myself called forth in all parts of
Cornwall. The mere sight of two strangers walking with such appendages
as knapsacks strapped on their shoulders, seemed of itself to provoke
the most unbounded wonder. We were stared at with almost incredible
pertinacity and good humour. People hard at work, left off to look at
us; while groups congregated at cottage doors, walked into the middle of
the road when they saw us approach, looked at us in front from that
commanding point of view until we passed them, and then wheeled round
with one accord and gazed at us behind as long as we were within sight.
Little children ran in-doors to bring out large children, as we drew
near. Farmers, overtaking us on horseback, pulled in, and passed at a
walk, to examine us at their ease. With the exception of bedridden
people and people in prison, I believe that the whole population of
Cornwall looked at us all over--back view and front view--from head to
foot!

This staring was nowhere accompanied, either on the part of young or
old, by a jeering word or an impertinent look. We evidently astonished
the people, but we never tempted them to forget their natural
good-nature, forbearance, and self-restraint. On our side, the attentive
scruti