s, to cover a surface. In
doing that, it is usual to sew the threads firmly down at the edges of
the forms and cut them very sharply off; but they may equally well be
carried backwards and forwards across the face of the stuff. The slight
swelling of the gold thread where it turns gives emphasis to the
outline; but the turning wants carefully doing, and the gold thread must
not be too thick. If you use a large needle (to clear the way for the
thread), the turning of the gold may take place on the back instead of
on the face of the material, but only in the case of very fine thread.

Gold threads often want stroking into position. This may be done with
what is called a "pierce"; but a good stiletto, or even a very large
needle, will answer the purpose. Sharply pointed scissors are
indispensable.

In solid couching the stitches run almost inevitably into pattern; and
it is customary, therefore, to start with the assumption that they will,
and deliberately to make them into pattern--to work them, that is to
say, in vertical, diagonal, or cross lines as at A, in zigzags as at B,
or in some more complicated diaper pattern as at C, where the stitching
is purposely in pronounced colour, that the pattern may be quite clearly
seen; at D it has more its proper value, that the effect of it may be
better appreciated. The pattern may, of course, be helped by the colour
of the stitching, and there is some art in making the necessary stitches
into appropriate pattern.

[Illustration: 56. COUCHED GOLD SAMPLER.]

In fact the ornamentist, being an ornamentist, naturally takes advantage
of the necessity of stitching, to pattern his metallic surfaces with
diaper, using often, as in the scroll in Illustration 57, a diversity
of patterns, which gives at once varied texture and fanciful interest to
the surface. There is quite an epitome of little diapers in that
fragment of needlework; and one can hardly doubt that the embroiderer
found it great fun to contrive them. The flat strips of metal
emphasising the backs of the curves are sometimes twisted as they are
sewn.

The other diapers on the sampler, F, G, H, J, 56, are emphasised by the
relief given to them by underlying cords, purposely left bare in parts
to show the structure. These underlying cords must be firmly sewn on to
the linen ground, and if the stitching follows the direction of the
twist in them, the round surface is not so likely to be roughened by it.
By rights, the cords