e ribbon where it
turns gives interest to the surface of the embroidery, which is always
more or less in relief upon the stuff, easy to crush, and of limited use
therefore.

[Illustration: 94. LEATHER APPLIQUE UPON VELVET.]

An effect of ribbon work, but of a harder kind, was produced by onlaying
narrow strips of card or parchment upon a silken ground, twisted about
after the fashion of ribbon. These, having been stitched in place,
were worked over in satin-stitch. The work has the merit of looking just
like what it is. But neither it nor ribbon embroidery is of any very
serious account.

Passing reference has been made to other materials to embroider with
than thread. Gold wire, for example, and spangles, coral and pearls,
which have been used with admirable discretion, as well as to vulgar
purpose. Jewels also were lavished upon the embroidery of bishops'
mitres, gloves and other significant apparel, and in default of real
stones, imitations in glass, and eventually beads (or pearls) of glass,
in which we have possibly the origin of knots. Bead embroidery is at
least as old as ancient Egypt. Even atoms of looking-glass, sewn round
with silk, have been used to really beautiful effect (barbaric though it
may be) in Indian work. The question almost occurs: with what can one
not embroider? In Madras they produce most brilliant embroidery upon
muslin with the cases of beetles' wings. In the Mauritius they use
fish-scales; in North America, porcupine quills; and everywhere savage
tribes use seeds, shells, feathers, and the teeth and claws of animals.

To return to more civilised work, there is embroidery in gold and silver
wire, allied to the art of the goldsmith, and on leather (Illustration
94), allied to the art of the saddler. It would be difficult to set any
limit to the directions in which embroidery may branch out, impossible
to describe them all. Happily, it is not necessary. A skilled worker
adapts herself to new conditions, and the conditions themselves dictate
the necessary modification of the familiar way.

A WORD TO THE WORKER.

A good workwoman will not encumber herself with too many tools; but she
will not shirk the expense of necessary implements, the simplest by
preference, and the best that are made.

[Sidenote: NEEDLES.]

Embroidery needles should have large eyes; the silk is not rubbed in
threading them, and they make way for the thread to pass smoothly
through the stuff. For working in