e. Things got still worse when
the agent became more and more intoxicated, in spite of the small
quantities of liquor we allowed him. I had to act as interpreter, a
most ungrateful task, as the planter soon began to insult the Resident,
and I had to translate his remarks and the Resident's answers. At last,
funny as the whole affair was in a way, it became very tiresome;
happily, matters came to a sudden close by the planter's falling
under the table. He was then taken ashore by his native wife and the
police-boys, who enjoyed this duty immensely. We smoked a quiet pipe,
looked after the fish-hooks--empty, of course--and slept on deck in
the cool night air. Next morning the planter came aboard somewhat
sobered and more tractable. He brought with him his wife, and their
child whom he wished to adopt. As the native women do not as a rule
stay with their masters very long, the children are registered under
the formula: "Child of N. N., mother unknown," an expression which
sounds somewhat queer to those who do not know the reason for it.

After having finished this business, we weighed anchor and set sail
for Tongoa. This is one of the few islands whose native population
does not decrease. The Presbyterian missionary there gives the entire
credit for this pleasant fact to his exertions, as the natives are
all converted. But as in other completely Christianized districts
the natives die out rapidly, it is doubtful whether Christianity
alone has had this beneficial effect, and we must seek other causes,
though they are hard to find.

After a clear night we sailed along the coast of Epi. The bright
weather had changed to a dull, rainy day, and the aspect of the
landscape was entirely altered. The smiling islands had become sober,
lonely, even threatening. When the charm of a country consists so
entirely in its colouring, any modification of the atmosphere and
light cause such a change in its character that the same view may look
either like Paradise or entirely dull and inhospitable. What had been
thus far a pleasure trip, a holiday excursion, turned suddenly into
a business journey, and this change in our mood was increased by a
slight illness which had attacked the Resident, making the jovial
gentleman morose and irritable.

The stay in Epi was rather uninteresting. Owing to the dense French
colonization there the natives have nearly all disappeared or become
quite degenerate. We spent our time in visits to the different