ge once passed, or the river crossed, Sienna lies
before you.]

This town is neat and cleanly, and comfortable and airy. The prospect
from the public walks wants no beauty but water; and here is a
suppressed convent on the neighbouring hill, where we half-longed to
build a pretty cottage, as the ground is now to be disposed of vastly
cheap; and half one's work is already done in the apartments once
occupied by friars. With half a word's persuasion I should fix for life
here. The air is so pure, the language so pleasing, the place so
inviting;--_but we drive on_.

There is, mean time, resident in the neighbourhood an English gentleman,
his name Greenfield, who has formed to himself a mighty sweet habitation
in the English taste, but not extensive, as his property don't reach
far: he is however a sort of little oracle in the country I am told;
gives money, and dispenses James's powders to the poor, is happy in the
esteem of numberless people of fashion, and the comfort of his country
people's lives beside; who, travelling to Sienna, as many do for the
advantage of studying Italian to perfection, find a friend and
companion where perhaps it is least expected.

The cathedral here at Sienna deserves a volume, and I shall scarcely
give it a page. The pavement of it is the just pride of Italy, and may
challenge the world to produce its equal. St. Mark's at Venice floored
with precious stones dies away upon the comparison; this being all
inlaid with dove-coloured and white marbles representing historical
subjects not ill told. Were this operation performed in mosaic work,
others of rival excellence might be found. The pavement of Sienna's dome
is so disposed by an effort of art one never saw but here, that it
produces an effect most resembling that of a very fine and beautiful
damask table-cloth, where the large patterns are correctly drawn.

_Rome_ however is to be our next stage, and many of our English
gentlemen now here, are with ourselves impatiently waiting for the
numberless pleasures it is expected to afford us. I will here close this
chapter upon our various desires; one wishing to see St. Peters; one
setting his heart upon entering the Capitol: to-morrow's sun will light
us all upon our search.

ROME.

The first sleeping place between Sienna and this capital shall not
escape mentioning; its name is Radicosani, its title an inn, and its
situation the summit of an exhausted volcano. Such a place did I never