FREE BOOKS

Author's List




PREV.   NEXT  
|<   33   34   35   36   37   38   39   40   41   42   43   44   45   46   47   48   49   50   51   52   53   54   55   56   57  
58   59   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69   70   71   72   73   74   75   76   77   78   79   80   81   82   >>   >|  
ne to pale fawn, and the tree has glorious foliage. =THE TIME TO PLANT.= October and November are the best months to plant rose-trees, except in very cold parts; February is then a safer time, especially for the tender sorts. =Their first season they require a great deal of looking after=; their roots have not got a proper foot-hold in the earth, and this means constant watering in dry weather. At blooming-time, an occasional application of guano does a great deal of good, making both flowers and leaves richer in colour. =Dead blooms, too, must be sedulously cut off=, as, if left on, the tree is weakened. =PRUNING.= Do a little pruning in October, though March and April are the chief months. In the autumn, however, the shoots of rose-trees should be thinned out, the branches left can then be shortened a fourth of their length with advantage, as the winter's howling winds are less likely to harm them. Standards especially require this, as when "carrying much sail" they are very liable to be up-rooted. When the spring comes, look the trees carefully over before commencing operations, remembering that =the sturdier a tree is the less it needs pruning=. The knife must go the deepest in the case of the poor, weak ones. Always prune down to an "eye," that is an incipient leaf-bud; if this is not done the wood rots. Evergreen roses need scarcely be touched, save to cut out dead branches and snip off decayed ends. For Teas and Noisettes also, little actual pruning is necessary. H.P.'s require the most. As a general rule for roses, if you want quality, not quantity, prune: hard, but to enable you to "cut and come again," only prune moderately. =Dis-budding= is a certain method of improving the blooms if it is done =in time=. It is little use to do it when the buds once begin to show colour; start picking off the superfluous ones when they are quite small, and the difference in size and shape is often amazing. CHAPTER VIII Enemies of the Garden _Slugs, and how to trap them--Blight or green fly--Earwigs-- Wireworm--Snails--Mice--Friends mistakenly called foes._ =The best garden as a rule has the fewest insects=, indeed, no foe is allowed to lodge for any length of time without means being taken for its extermination. Some enemies are more easily got rid of than others; for instance, green fly, or _aphis_ (to give it the scientific name), rarely attacks healthy plants to any extent; it goes f
PREV.   NEXT  
|<   33   34   35   36   37   38   39   40   41   42   43   44   45   46   47   48   49   50   51   52   53   54   55   56   57  
58   59   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69   70   71   72   73   74   75   76   77   78   79   80   81   82   >>   >|  



Top keywords:

require

 

pruning

 

branches

 
length
 

colour

 

blooms

 

October

 
months
 

decayed

 

method


touched

 

scarcely

 
improving
 

Noisettes

 

quality

 
quantity
 

general

 

enable

 

budding

 

actual


moderately
 

extermination

 
enemies
 

easily

 

allowed

 

plants

 

healthy

 

extent

 
attacks
 

rarely


instance
 

scientific

 

CHAPTER

 

amazing

 
Enemies
 

Garden

 

superfluous

 

difference

 
called
 

garden


fewest

 

insects

 

mistakenly

 

Friends

 
Earwigs
 

Blight

 

Wireworm

 

Snails

 
picking
 

carefully