n expert. The emanation from the solution must not be
breathed. Tar does almost as well. A nest may be partly dug and flooded
at night. A clean wine bottle (half-filled with water) inserted in the
place of the nest (the top of the neck level with the surface of the
ground) will probably capture all stragglers. Some make a heap of
injured fruit and syringe the wasps with nicotine soap, eight ounces to
a gallon of hot or cold water. This plan kills quickly, but the fruit no
longer attracts. Squibs a half-inch in diameter, three inches long, made
of gunpowder moistened with water, one-fourth of flowers of sulphur
added, mixed into a paste, wrapped in brown paper, and tied at one end,
are good for the work. After dark, light the squib, push the lighted end
into the hole, put a sod over, and ram it in to confine the fumes. In a
few minutes dig up and destroy the grubs, then fill up the hole. If the
nest is high up, attach the squib to a stick, light, and keep it close
(while burning) to the entrance. Young gardeners enjoy this squibbing
process.

[Illustration: FAN-SHAPED PEAR TREE, ONE YEAR AFTER GRAFTING, SHOWING
THE LENGTH OF RESULTING SHOOTS]

THINNING FRUIT

If you wish for fine fruit or a crop every year, trees must not be
overworked, especially in their earlier days. Thin whenever there is a
large crop, but do not begin too soon, as some fruits are not fully
fertilised, and may fall. Never let fruits touch each other. As the
fruits mature, give any grub-eaten to the pigs, and use inferior pears
for cooking purposes. Grub-eaten fruit must not lie on the ground.

SUMMER, WINTER, BRANCH AND ROOT PRUNING; LIFTING

Summer pruning rests chiefly on the principle that the trees should
always be open more or less while in leaf to the sun, the light, and the
air. So cut out _at any time_ branches that crowd the tree or threaten
to cross other boughs. Cut from below, so as not to tear bark away.
Pears do not bleed from being cut. In July, when the growing time is
almost over, cut back to six or seven leaves any strong shoots springing
from a main branch, or in cordons, from the stem. If they shoot again,
they should again be stopped. In late autumn or winter look over the
trees, reduce the shoots to two or three eyes, taking care not to remove
bloom buds. Early in the summer, and at any time, remove from the trunk
and boughs any shoots threatening to crowd or shade the centre. Keep the
tree (especially the centre) open