pared in a
peculiar way so as to produce a surface equal to French polish. Ornament
can be added by gilding, etc., after the polished surface is finished.

We will begin with the white or light-tinted enamel. The same process
must be pursued for any colour, the only difference being in the
selection of the materials for the tint required to be produced.

It should be observed that enamelling requires the exercise of the
greatest care, and will not bear hurrying. Each coat must be allowed
sufficient time for the hardening, and the rubbing down must be
patiently and gently done; heavy pressure will completely spoil the
work.

=Materials.=--The materials used for the purpose above named are: white
lead ground in turpentine and the best white lead in oil; a clear,
quick, and hard-drying varnish, such as the best copal, or the varnishes
for enamel manufactured by Mr. W. Urquhart, 327, Edgware Road, W.; or
white coburg and white enamel varnish, ground and lump pumice-stone, or
putty-powder, great care being taken in the selection of the
pumice-stone, as the slightest particle of grit will spoil the surface;
and rotten-stone, used either with water or oil.

=Tools.=--The tools required are several flat wooden blocks, of various
sizes and forms, suitable for inserting into corners and for
mouldings--these must be covered with felt on the side you intend to
use, the felt best adapted for the purpose being the white felt, from a
quarter to half an inch in thickness, which can be obtained of Messrs.
Thomas Wallis & Co., Holborn Circus, or at the woollen warehouses; two
or three bosses (made similar to polish rubbers) of cotton-wool, and
covered with silk (an old silk handkerchief makes capital coverings);
wash or chamois leather, and a good sponge.

=Mode of Operation.=--If the wood is soft and porous it is best to
commence with a coating of size and whiting applied in a warm state,
which is allowed to dry; it is then rubbed down with glass-paper, and
two coats of common paint given, mixed in the usual way and of the same
colour as you intend to finish with. In practice this is found to be
best; after these two coats are thoroughly dry, mix the white-lead
ground in turps, with only a sufficient quantity of varnish to bind it,
thinning to a proper consistency with turps. It is as well to add a
little of the ordinary white-lead ground in oil, as it helps to prevent
cracking. Give the work four or five coats of this, and a