shes them. Every hair of wool is saw-edged, and this by beating
will mass together. Superfine cloth with a thick solution of soap spread
between each layer, and, folded into many piles, is exposed to the long
continued action of revolving wooden hammers on wheels, three separate times,
for four hours each time. This process diminishes both breadth and length
nearly one half.
After "fulling" cloth is woolly and rough; to improve the appearance it is
first
(14) teazled--that is, raked with cylinders covered with the round prickly
heads of the teazle plant. Many attempts have been made to invent wire and
other brushes for the same purpose, but hitherto nothing has been found more
effective and economical than the teazle. To apply them the cloth is
stretched on cloth beams, and made to move in one direction, while the teazle
cylinders turn in another. When the ends of the fibres have been thus
raised, they are
(15) sheared or clipped, in order to produce the same effect as clipping the
rough coat of a horse. Formerly this operation was performed by hand. The
introduction of machinery created formidable riots in the west of England. At
present the operation is performed with great perfection and rapidity, by
more than one process.
When the cloth has been raised and sheared once, it is in the best possible
condition for wear; but in order to give superfine cloth beauty, it is
sheared several times, then exposed to the action of steam, and at the same
time brushed with cylinder brushes. Other operations, of minor importance,
are carried on for the purpose of giving smoothness and gloss. It may be
observed that a brilliant appearance does not always, in modern manufactures,
betoken the best cloth. An eminent woollen manufacturer having been asked
what cloth he would recommend for wear and warmth to a backwoodsman, answered
quickly, "Nothing can wear like a good blanket." The small manufacturers
generally dispose of their cloth in the rough state.
The progress of machinery has called into existence a great number of
factories, especially in worsted and mixed stuffs, has given value to many
descriptions of wool formerly valueless, and, coupled with the repeal of the
duty, brought into the market many kinds unknown a few years ago. "Properties
once prized," Mr. Southey remarks in his Essay on Wools, "have given way to
some other property upon which machinery can better operate, and yield more
desirable resul
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