d. This is the Brussels sprout.

Next comes the turn of the stump, an unprofitable, almost wooden,
thing, which seemed never to have any other purpose than to act as a
support for the plant. But the tricks of gardeners are capable of
everything, so much so that the stalk yields to the grower's
suggestions and becomes fleshy and swells into an ellipse similar to
the turnip, of which it possesses all the merits of corpulence, flavour
and delicacy; only the strange product serves as a base for a few
sparse leaves, the last protests of a real stem that refuses to lose
its attributes entirely. This is the cole-rape.

If the stem allows itself to be allured, why not the root? It does, in
fact, yield to the blandishments of agriculture: it dilates its pivot
into a flat turnip, which half emerges from the ground. This is the
rutabaga, or swede, the turnip-cabbage of our northern districts.

Incomparably docile under our nursing, the cabbage has given its all
for our nourishment and that of our cattle: its leaves, its flowers,
its buds, its stalk, its root; all that it now wants is to combine the
ornamental with the useful, to smarten itself, to adorn our flowerbeds
and cut a good figure on a drawing-room table. It has done this to
perfection, not with its flowers, which, in their modesty, continue
intractable, but with its curly and variegated leaves, which have the
undulating grace of Ostrich-feathers and the rich colouring of a mixed
bouquet. None who beholds it in this magnificence will recognize the
near relation of the vulgar "greens" that form the basis of our
cabbage-soup.

The cabbage, first in order of date in our kitchen-gardens, was held in
high esteem by classic antiquity, next after the bean and, later, the
pea; but it goes much farther back, so far indeed that no memories of
its acquisition remain. History pays but little attention to these
details: it celebrates the battle-fields whereon we meet our death, but
scorns to speak of the ploughed fields whereby we thrive; it knows the
names of the kings' bastards, but cannot tell us the origin of wheat.
That is the way of human folly.

This silence respecting the precious plants that serve as food is most
regrettable. The cabbage in particular, the venerable cabbage, that
denizen of the most ancient garden-plots, would have had extremely
interesting things to teach us. It is a treasure in itself, but a
treasure twice exploited, first by man and next by the caterp