d of Sharp Pinnacles, down the Kyles of Bute, where the
scenery is of exquisite beauty; past Rothesay, the Hastings of the West,
and with an aquarium said to be the finest in the world, and almost as
flourishing as that Hastings of the South which rejoices in a yatchsman
for M.P. of unrivalled fame; past Dunoon, till we drop anchor at Hunters'
Quay. We seem all at once to have come into the world again. On every
side of us there are steamers bearing tourists, and holiday-makers, and
health-seekers to the crowded bathing-places and health resorts. As we
approach our journey's end, the Clyde seems covered with rowing-boats,
and music and laughter echo along its waters. I feel a little sad to
think that my brief holiday is over. The Doctor and the Doctor's lady
tell me we shall meet in London, and that is a consolation. Yes, we
shall meet, but no more as equals on deck. He will be in the pulpit or
on the platform, I beneath. There is no equality when a man puts on the
black gown, and begins lecturing to the pew. The mutual standpoint
vanishes like a dream. But when, oh, when shall I sail in such a model
yacht as the _Elena_ again, or meet with such hospitality as I enjoyed at
its worthy owner's hands? His sons, amphibious as are all the Scotchmen,
apparently, in these parts, row out to meet us. The greeting is as
affectionate as mostly the greetings of the British race are. "What did
you come back for? We were getting on very well without you," were the
first words I heard.

CHAPTER IX.
BACK AGAIN.

As next morning I crossed the Clyde, and took my seat in a crowded and
early train, it seemed to me that rain was not far off, and that at
Edinburgh Royalty might be favoured with a sight of what in England is
known as Scotch mist. Nor were my forebodings wrong. The modern Athens
was under a cloud, and many were the heavy-hearted who had come from far
and near to do honour to the day. The Glasgow men have but a poor
opinion of the citizens of Edinburgh. They took a very unfavourable view
of the matter. If Edinburgh desired to have a statue of Albert the Good,
why not? If the Queen liked to be present at its inauguration, there was
no harm in that; if there were a little fuller ceremonial on the
occasion, it was only what was to be expected; but that Edinburgh should
hasten to wash her statues and decorate her streets; that she should
clean up her shop-fronts, and drape her balconies; that she should