shared with companions from the stables and the streets. He drilled
soldiers, forming pleasure regiments, and had hours of delight sailing
an old boat which he found one day, for this aroused a new enthusiasm.
There were Dutch skippers at Archangel who were glad to teach him all
they knew of navigation and the duties of their various crafts. The
Tsar insisted on working his way upward from a cabin-boy--he was
democratic, and intended to level classes in his Empire in this way.

Russian subjects complained bitterly of the Tsar's strange foreign
tastes as soon as they heard that he was fond of visiting the
_Sloboda_, that German quarter of his capital where so many foreigners
lived. There were rumours that he was not Alexis' son but the
offspring perhaps of Lefort, the Genevese favourite, who helped him to
reform. When it was reported that he was about to visit foreign lands,
discontent was louder, for the rulers of the east did not travel far
from their own dominions if they followed the customs of their fathers,
and observed their people's will. The _Streltsy_, a privileged class
of soldiers, rose on the eve of the departure for the west. Their
punishment did not descend on them at once, but Peter planned a dark
vengeance in his mind.

The monarch visited many countries in disguise, intent on learning the
civilized arts of western Europe, {139} that he might introduce them to
"barbarous Muscovy," which clung to the obsolete practices of a former
age. He spent some time at Zaandem, a village in Holland, where he was
busily engaged in boat-building. Then he was entertained at Amsterdam,
and passed on to England as the guest of William III. He occupied
Sayes Court, near Deptford, the residence of John Evelyn, the great
diarist, and wrought much havoc in that pleasant place; for his manners
were still rude and barbarous, and he had no respect for the property
of his host. Sir Godfrey Kneller painted him--a handsome giant, six
feet eight inches high, with full lips, dark skin, and curly hair that
always showed beneath his wig. The Tsar disdained to adorn his person,
and was often meanly clad, wearing coarse darned stockings, thick
shoes, and studying economy in dress.

Peter continued his study of ship-building at Deptford, but the chief
object of his visit was fulfilled when he had induced workmen of all
kinds to return with him to Russia to teach their different trades.
The Tsar was intent on securing a fleet,