needs mention. Count
Louis Voynovitch from Ragusa was staying in Cetinje to draw up a new
code of laws. This clever adventurer was looked on with some
jealousy by the Montenegrins and much favoured by the Royal Family
whom he amused with anecdotes and jokes.

It was said he was to be permanently Minister of Justice, but he
left Montenegro rather suddenly over, it was said, a cherchez la
femme affair. He then went to Bulgaria as tutor, I believe, to the
young Princes, and afterwards held a post in Serbia.

And he returned again to Montenegro and represented Montenegro at
the Ambassadors Conference in London during the Balkan War of
1912-13. He was reputed to be deep dipped in every intrigue of the
Balkans and in Jugoslavia we may some day hear of him again.

Nothing else now worth recording occurred in my 1901 holiday. Next
year was a full one.

CHAPTER FOUR.

SERBIA AND THE WAY THERE

"The wicked flee when no man pursueth, but the righteous is bold as
a lion."

Twice had I visited Montenegro and had heard much of Great Serbia.
Of the past as seen by Serb eyes I read in any number of cheap pink
and blue ballad books. As for the present, big Montenegrins in the
most decorative national dress in Europe, swaggered up and down the
main street of Cetinje, consumed unlimited black coffee and rakia
and discussed the glorious days when all Serbs should again be
united under Gospodar Nikita. But that they were taking any active
steps to create this earthly paradise I had then no idea.

My 1902 holiday was due. I decided to go further afield and see
Serbia itself, but to go first to Montenegro where I might obtain
information and introductions. No one in England could tell me
anything and only one recent book on the subject could be found.
This was of no consequence for the real joy of travel begins with
the plunge into the unknown and in 1902 it was still possible to
find this joy in Europe. From Whittaker's Almanac I learnt that all
passports must be visaed at the Serbian Legation and thither I
hastened.

I had never travelled without a passport, for accidents may always
happen and even so near home as Paris identity papers may be useful.
But I had never before sought a special visa.

Light-heartedly, therefore, I rang the Legation bell and cheerfully
offered the youth, who admitted me, the passport with a request for
a visa. He told me to wait; and wait I did until--though not quite
new to the Near East I