the snow,--perhaps it was laid out in that way,--and
its little open square, with shrine and rude stone fountain, surrounded by
women in short skirts and hobnailed shoes, dipping their buckets. On both
sides of this street ran queer arcades sheltering shops, their doorways
piled with cheap stuffs, fruit, farm implements, and the like, and at the
far end, it was almost the last house in the town, stood the old inn,
where you breakfast. Such an old, old inn! with swinging sign framed by
fantastic iron work, and decorated with overflows of foaming ale in green
mugs, crossed clay pipes, and little round dabs of yellow-brown cakes.
There was a great archway, too, wide and high, with enormous, barn-like
doors fronting on this straggling, zigzag, sabot-trodden street. Under
this a cobble-stone pavement led to the door of the coffee-room and out to
the stable beyond. These barn-like doors keep out the driving snows and
the whirls of sleet and rain, and are slammed to behind horse, sleigh, and
all, if not in the face, certainly in the very teeth of the winter gale,
while the traveler disentangles his half-frozen legs at his leisure,
almost within sight of the blazing fire of the coffee-room within.

Under this great archway, then, against one of these doors, his big paws
just inside the shadow line,--for it was not winter, but a brilliant
summer morning, the grass all dusted with powdered diamonds, the sky a
turquoise, the air a joy,--under this archway, I say, sat a big St.
Bernard dog, squat on his haunches, his head well up, like a grenadier on
guard. His eyes commanded the approaches down the road, up the road, and
across the street; taking in the passing peddler with the tinware, and the
girl with a basket strapped to her back, her fingers knitting for dear
life, not to mention so unimportant an object as myself swinging down the
road, my iron-shod alpenstock hammering the cobbles.

He made no objection to my entering, neither did he receive me with any
show of welcome. There was no bounding forward, no wagging of the tail, no
aimless walking around for a moment, and settling down in another spot;
nor was there any sudden growl or forbidding look in the eye. None of
these things occurred to him, for none of these things was part of his
duty. The landlord would do the welcoming, the blue-shirted porter take my
knapsack and show me the way to the coffee-room. His business was to sit
still and guard that archway. Paying guests,