the simplicity of that worthy man's
nature to exert any great ingenuity in deceiving him; it would have
been like setting a trap for a snail. So they journeyed on, highly
pleased with each other, and occasionally, in the absence of their
faithful interpreter, conversed by means of smiles and courteous
gesticulations, till my grandfather felt entirely at his ease, and was
almost sorry when, on the evening of the second day, they got to
Cadiz.

CHAPTER III.

A whole city full of people condensed into one broad amphitheatre, all
bearing a national resemblance to each other in countenance and
costume, all apparently animated by the same spirit--for nothing could
be more unanimous than the applause which greeted a favourite
smilingly crossing the arena, the abuse which overwhelmed an object
offensive to the eye of the many-headed, or the ridicule which
descended in a joyous uproarious flood on the hapless individual in
whose appearance, dress, or manner, anything was detected calculated
to appeal to the highly sensitive risible faculty of a Spanish
assembly;--a gay and picturesque mixture of colours, waving and
tossing like a garden in a breeze, as the masses of white mantillas,
heads black as coal, decorated with flowers and green leaves, red
sashes, tufted sombreros, and yellow gaiters, with here and there a
blue-and-white soldier standing stiffly up, were agitated by each new
emotion--such was the scene that met the eyes of our travellers on
entering the bull-ring at Cadiz before the sport commenced.

My grandfather had made his entry in spectacles--appendages highly
provocative of the public mirth--and had looked wonderingly for a
minute or two through the obnoxious glasses on a sea of faces
upturned, sideturned, and downturned, all looking at him, and all
shouting some indistinguishable chorus; while the men beat time, each
with the long, forked, painted stick, without which no Spaniard
possessing sentiments of propriety ever comes to a bull-fight, in a
manner most embarrassing to a somewhat bashful stranger, till their
attention was luckily diverted to an unhappy man in a white hat, in
derision of whom they immediately sang a song, the burden of which
was "El del sombrero blanco," (he of the white hat), the multitude
conducting itself throughout like one man.

My grandfather and his friends occupied a distinguished position
in a box high above the multitude, and near that of the alcalde.
The Senorita Juana look