you do not want to waste time taking up a fresh tool, but with the end
of your leading-knife which is called a "stopping-knife" (fig. 56), and
which lead workers generally make for themselves out of an oyster-knife,
by bending the blade to a convenient working angle for manipulating the
lead, and graving out lines in the lower part of the handle, into which
they run solder, terminating it in a solid lump at the butt-end which
forms an excellent substitute for a hammer.

[Illustration: FIG. 56.]

Now as soon as you have got the bits 1, 2, 3, 4 in their places, with
the leads F, G and H, I between them, you can take out the nails along
the line K, F, H, M, one by one as you come to them, starting from K;
and put along that line one lead enclosing the whole lot, replacing the
nails outside it to keep all firm as you work; and you must note that
you should look out for opportunities to do this always, whenever there
is a long line of the cut-line without any abrupt corners in it. You
will thus save yourself the cutting (and afterwards the soldering) of
unnecessary joints; for it is always good to save labour where you can
without harm to the work; and in this case the work is all the better
for it.

Now, when you have thus continued the leading all the way across the
panel, put on the other outside lead, and so work on to a finish.

When the opposite, outside lead is put on, remove the nails and take
another straight-edge and put it against the lead, and "knock it up" by
hitting the straight-edge until you get it to the exact size; at the
same time taking your set-square and testing the corners to see that all
is at right angles.

Leave now the panel in its place, with the straight-edges still
enclosing it, and solder off the joints.

CHAPTER XI

Soldering--Handling the Leaded Panel--Cementing--Recipe for
Cement--The Brush--Division of Long Lights into Sections--How
Joined when Fixed--Banding--Fixing--Chipping out the Old
Glazing--Inserting the New and Cementing.

If the leads have got _tarnished_ you may brush them over with the wire
brush (fig. 57), which glaziers call a "scratch-card"; but this is a
wretched business and need never be resorted to if you work with good
lead and work "fresh and fresh," and finish as you go, not letting the
work lie about and get stale. Take an old-fashioned tallow "dip" candle,
and put a little patch of the grease over each joint, either by rubbing
th