Highlands; but we did not see them till the next morning, and only for
about a quarter of an hour.

* * * * *

_Thursday_, _August_ 18_th_.--Went to the churchyard where Burns is
buried. A bookseller accompanied us. He showed us the outside of
Burns's house, where he had lived the last three years of his life, and
where he died. It has a mean appearance, and is in a bye situation,
whitewashed; dirty about the doors, as almost all Scotch houses are;
flowering plants in the windows.

Went on to visit his grave. He lies at a corner of the churchyard, and
his second son, Francis Wallace, beside him. There is no stone to mark
the spot; {5} but a hundred guineas have been collected, to be expended
on some sort of monument. 'There,' said the bookseller, pointing to a
pompous monument, 'there lies Mr. Such-a-one'--I have forgotten his
name,--'a remarkably clever man; he was an attorney, and hardly ever lost
a cause he undertook. Burns made many a lampoon upon him, and there they
rest, as you see.' We looked at the grave with melancholy and painful
reflections, repeating to each other his own verses:--

'Is there a man whose judgment clear
Can others teach the course to steer,
Yet runs himself life's mad career
Wild as the wave?--
Here let him pause, and through a tear
Survey this grave.
The Poor Inhabitant below
Was quick to learn, and wise to know,
And keenly felt the friendly glow
And softer flame;
But thoughtless follies laid him low,
And stain'd his name.'

The churchyard is full of grave-stones and expensive monuments in all
sorts of fantastic shapes--obelisk-wise, pillar-wise, etc. In speaking
of Gretna Green, I forgot to mention that we visited the churchyard. The
church is like a huge house; indeed, so are all the churches, with a
steeple, not a square tower or spire,--a sort of thing more like a
glass-house chimney than a Church of England steeple; grave-stones in
abundance, few verses, yet there were some--no texts. Over the graves of
married women the maiden name instead of that of the husband, 'spouse'
instead of 'wife,' and the place of abode preceded by 'in' instead of
'of.' When our guide had left us, we turned again to Burns's house.
Mrs. Burns was gone to spend some time by the sea-shore with her
children. We spoke to the servant-maid at the door, who invited us
forward, and we sate d