s belonging to Captain Cook's Voyages, and within was
like a hay-stack scooped out. It was circular, with a dome-like roof, a
seat all round fixed to the wall, and a table in the middle,--seat, wall,
roof and table all covered with moss in the neatest manner possible. It
was as snug as a bird's nest; I wish we had such a one at the top of our
orchard, only a great deal smaller. We afterwards found that huts of the
same kind were common in the pleasure-grounds of Scotland; but we never
saw any that were so beautifully wrought as this. It had, however,
little else to recommend it, the situation being chosen without judgment;
there was no prospect from it, nor was it a place of seclusion and
retirement, for it stood close to the ell-wide gravel walk. We wished we
could have shoved it about a hundred yards further on, when we arrived at
a bench which was also close to the walk, for just below the bench, the
walk elbowing out into a circle, there was a beautiful spring of clear
water, which we could see rise up continually, at the bottom of a round
stone basin full to the brim, the water gushing out at a little outlet
and passing away under the walk. A reason was wanted for placing the hut
where it is; what a good one would this little spring have furnished for
bringing it hither! Along the whole of the path were openings at
intervals for views of the river, but, as almost always happens in
gentlemen's grounds, they were injudiciously managed; you were prepared
for a dead stand--by a parapet, a painted seat, or some other device.
We stayed some time at the Boniton Fall, which has one great advantage
over the other falls, that it is at the termination of the
pleasure-grounds, and we see no traces of the boundary-line; yet, except
under some accidental circumstances, such as a sunset like that of the
preceding evening, it is greatly inferior to the Cora Linn. We returned
to the inn to dinner. The landlord set the first dish upon the table, as
is common in England, and we were well waited upon. This first dish was
true Scottish--a boiled sheep's head, with the hair singed off; Coleridge
and I ate heartily of it; we had barley broth, in which the sheep's head
had been boiled. A party of tourists whom we had met in the
pleasure-grounds drove from the door while we were waiting for dinner; I
guess they were fresh from England, for they had stuffed the pockets of
their carriage with bundles of heather, roots and all, just
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