d was steep
over the hill, and when we had reached the top of it we had long views up
and down the water. Passed a troop of women who were resting themselves
by the roadside, as if returning from their day's labour. Amongst them
was a man, who had walked with us a considerable way in the morning, and
told us he was just come from America, where he had been for some
years,--was going to his own home, and should return to America. He
spoke of emigration as a glorious thing for them who had money. Poor
fellow! I do not think that he had brought much back with him, for he had
worked his passage over: I much suspected that a bundle, which he carried
upon a stick, tied in a pocket-handkerchief, contained his all. He was
almost blind, he said, as were many of the crew. He intended crossing
the lake at the ferry; but it was stormy, and he thought he should not be
able to get over that day. I could not help smiling when I saw him lying
by the roadside with such a company about him, not like a wayfaring man,
but seeming as much at home and at his ease as if he had just stepped out
of his hut among them, and they had been neighbours all their lives.
{80b} Passed one pretty house, a large thatched dwelling with
out-houses, but the prospect above and below was solitary.
The sun had long been set before we returned to the inn. As travellers,
we were glad to see the moon over the top of one of the hills, but it was
a cloudy night, without any peculiar beauty or solemnity. After tea we
made inquiries respecting the best way to go to Loch Ketterine; the
landlord could give but little information, and nobody seemed to know
anything distinctly of the place, though it was but ten miles off. We
applied to the maid-servant who waited on us: she was a fine-looking
young woman, dressed in a white bed-gown, her hair fastened up by a comb,
and without shoes and stockings. When we asked her about the Trossachs
she could give us no information, but on our saying, 'Do you know Loch
Ketterine?' she answered with a smile, 'I _should_ know that loch, for I
was bred and born there.' After much difficulty we learned from her that
the Trossachs were at the foot of the lake, and that by the way we were
to go we should come upon them at the head, should have to travel ten
miles to the foot {80a} of the water, and that there was no inn by the
way. The girl spoke English very distinctly; but she had few words, and
found it difficult to understa
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