thing to try often. We had an excellent table after the first
day, the best wines and so forth, and the captain and I swore eternal
friendship. Ditto the first officer and the majority of the passengers.
We got into the bay about seven this morning, but could not land until
noon. We towed from Civita Vecchia the entire Greek navy, I believe,
consisting of a little brig-of-war, with great guns, fitted as a
steamer, but disabled by having burst the bottom of her boiler in her
first run. She was just big enough to carry the captain and a crew of
six or so, but the captain was so covered with buttons and gold that
there never would have been room for him on board to put these valuables
away if he hadn't worn them, which he consequently did, all night.

Whenever anything was wanted to be done, as slackening the tow-rope or
anything of that sort, our officers roared at this miserable potentate,
in violent English, through a speaking-trumpet, of which he couldn't
have understood a word under the most favourable circumstances, so he
did all the wrong things first, and the right things always last. The
absence of any knowledge of anything not English on the part of the
officers and stewards was most ridiculous. I met an Italian gentleman on
the cabin steps, yesterday morning, vainly endeavouring to explain that
he wanted a cup of tea for his sick wife. And when we were coming out of
the harbour at Genoa, and it was necessary to order away that boat of
music you remember, the chief officer (called aft for the purpose, as
"knowing something of Italian,") delivered himself in this explicit and
clear manner to the principal performer: "Now, signora, if you don't
sheer off, you'll be run down; so you had better trice up that guitar of
yours, and put about."

We get on as well as possible, and it is extremely pleasant and
interesting, and I feel that the change is doing me great and real
service, after a long continuous strain upon the mind; but I am pleased
to think that we are at our farthest point, and I look forward with joy
to coming home again, to my old room, and the old walks, and all the old
pleasant things.

I wish I had arranged, or could have done so--for it would not have been
easy--to find some letters here. It is a blank to stay for five days in
a place without any.

I don't think Edward knows fifty Italian words; but much more French is
spoken in Italy now than when we were here, and he stumbles along
somehow.