te years. The Mussulmans have
been beaten into a kind of sullen civility very comfortable to voyagers.

It is hazardous to say much on the subject of Turks and Turkey; since it
is possible to live amongst them twenty years without acquiring
information, at least from themselves. As far as my own slight
experience carried me, I have no complaint to make; but am indebted for
many civilities (I might almost say for friendship), and much
hospitality, to Ali Pacha, his son Vely Pacha of the Morea, and several
others of high rank in the provinces. Suleyman Aga, late Governor of
Athens, and now of Thebes, was a _bon vivant_, and as social a being as
ever sat cross-legged at a tray or a table. During the carnival, when
our English party were masquerading, both himself and his successor were
more happy to "receive masks" than any dowager in Grosvenor-square.[270]

On one occasion of his supping at the convent, his friend and visitor,
the Cadi[271] of Thebes, was carried from table perfectly qualified for
any club in Christendom; while the worthy Waywode himself triumphed in
his fall.

In all money transactions with the Moslems, I ever found the strictest
honour, the highest disinterestedness. In transacting business with
them, there are none of those dirty peculations, under the name of
interest, difference of exchange, commission, etc., etc., uniformly
found in applying to a Greek consul to cash bills, even on the first
houses in Pera.

With regard to presents, an established custom in the East, you will
rarely find yourself a loser; as one worth acceptance is generally
returned by another of similar value--a horse, or a shawl.

In the capital and at court the citizens and courtiers are formed in the
same school with those of Christianity; but there does not exist a more
honourable, friendly, and high-spirited character than the true Turkish
provincial Aga, or Moslem country gentleman. It is not meant here to
designate the governors of towns, but those Agas who, by a kind of
feudal tenure, possess lands and houses, of more or less extent, in
Greece and Asia Minor.

The lower orders are in as tolerable discipline as the rabble in
countries with greater pretensions to civilisation. A Moslem, in walking
the streets of our country-towns, would be more incommoded in England
than a Frank in a similar situation in Turkey. Regimentals are the best
travelling dress.

The best accounts of the religion and different sects of Islam