te in 1630, and Morton
in 1624, that they had a quart of milk for a penny. John Cotton said
ministers and milk were the only things cheap in New England.

By Johnson's time New Englanders had "Apple, Pear and Quince Tarts
instead of their former Pumpkin Pies." They had besides apple-tarts,
apple mose, apple slump, mess apple-pies, buttered apple-pies, apple
crowdy and puff apple-pies--all differing.

Josselyn said the "Quinces, Cherries, & Damsins set the Dames a-work.
Marmalet & Preserved Damsins is to be met with in every house." Skill in
preserving was ever an English-woman's pride, and New-English women did
not forget the lessons learned in their "faire English homes." They made
preserves and conserves, marmalets and quiddonies, hypocras and
household wines, usquebarbs and cordials. They candied fruits and made
syrups. They preserved everything that would bear preserving. I have
seen old-time receipts for preserving quinces, "respasse," pippins,
"apricocks," plums, "damsins," peaches, oranges, lemons, artichokes,
green walnuts, elecampane roots, eringo roots, grapes, barberries,
cherries; receipts for syrup of clove gillyflower, wormwood, mint,
aniseed, clove, elder, lemons, marigolds, citron, hyssop, liquorice;
receipts for conserves of roses, violets, borage flowers, rosemary,
betony, sage, mint, lavender, marjoram, and "piony;" rules for candying
fruit, berries, and flowers, for poppy water, cordial, cherry water,
lemon water, thyme water, Angelica water, Aqua Mirabilis, Aqua
C[oe]lestis, clary water, mint water.

No wonder a profession of preserving sprung up. By 1731 we find
advertised in June in the _Boston News Letter_, "At Widow Bonyots All
Sorts of Fruits in Preserves Jellys and Surrups. Egg Cakes, All sorts of
Macaroons, Marchepane Crisp Almonds. All sorts Conserves, Also Meat
Jellys for the sick."

We can see plainly by these statements that New England was no
Nidderland. Even in Josselyn's day he wrote, "they have not forgotten
the English fashion of stirring up their appetites with variety of
cooking their food." The pages of Judge Sewall's diary give many hints
of his daily fare. He speaks of "boil'd Pork, boil'd Pigeons, boil'd
Bacon and boil'd Venison; rost Beef, rost Lamb, rost Fowls, rost Turkey,
pork and beans;" "Frigusee of Fowls," "Joll of Salmon," "Oysters, Fish
and Oyl, conners, Legg of Pork, hogs Cheek and souett; pasty, bread and
butter; Minc'd Pye, Aplepy, tarts, gingerbread, sugar'd al