drawing. Reduce to size the
drawer guides and fasten them in place. Dowel the frames to the ends of
the dresser in the places indicated on the drawing. Put on the back,
nailing into frames to the ends of the dresser in the places indicated
and fasten the top in place, putting screws into it from the under side.

The mirror frame and support should next be made. The drawing shows
quite clearly the parts and their relation to each other. All the slopes
are of 45 deg. Instead of rabbeting the mirror frame, a 1/4 by 3/8-in.
fillet of oak is nailed around to form the recess, the walnut frame and
oak fillet making a pretty contrast. All nail holes are to be filled
with putty colored to match the finish. Wooden pins or round-head screws
are to be used to fasten the mirror frame to its support and should be
placed above center an inch or so.

The drawers are to be constructed in the usual manner. It is a good plan
to make the grooves 1/16 in. narrower than the stock is thick to insure
a fit, chamfering the under or back sides of the bottom and back if
necessary. Make the sides of the drawers of such a length that when the
drawer has been pushed in as far as it will go, the front will be
recessed about 1/4 in. behind the front crosspieces. Groove the inside
of the drawer front 3/16 in. to receive the bottom. The mirror should
not be placed until the wood has been finished.

[Illustration: DRAWER CONSTRUCTION]

Finish the wood natural, apply three coats of varnish. Rub the first two
with haircloth or curled hair and the last with pulverized pumice stone
and crude oil or raw linseed oil. This gives an egg-shell gloss. For a
dull finish, rub the varnish after it has become bone dry with
pulverized pumice stone and water, using a piece of rubbing felt. Rub
until the surface is smooth and even, and clean with a wet sponge or
chamois skin. If a polished finish is desired, rub first with pulverized
pumice stone and water, then with rotten stone and water. Finish with a
mixture of oil and a little pulverized rotten stone.

CUTTING TENONS WITH A HAND-SAW

This home-made tool will be a great help in the construction of mission
furniture. With its use, tenons may be entirely cut with a saw,
discarding the use of a chisel and mallet. The device consists of a
convenient length of straight board, A, Fig. 1, wide enough to cover the
widest piece to be tenoned. A piece of board, B, is fastened to A with
brads or small screws. This