width of each piece for "squaring up" of all pieces
except those marked to be surfaced on four sides.

Begin by squaring the sides and ends to size. Probably the best joint
for the corners is the dovetail. If the worker is not experienced in
woodworking, some of the more simple joints will do. It will be noted
that the drawing and stock-bill call for the simplest form of joint,
that in which the sides of the chest lap over the end. For the dovetail
joint it will be necessary to add 2 in. more to the length of the end
pieces, making them 16-3/4 in. each in the rough.

Having got the sides and ends ready, fasten them together. The
perspective shows the sides fastened to the ends with ornamental headed
nails. Common nails are first used, being equally spaced, and the
ornamental heads are afterwards placed so as to cover their heads.

Next square the bottom and nail it to the parts just assembled. Square
the top to the same size.

The base stuff is squared on one edge only. The second edge--the upper
one--is to be beveled or sloped 1/8 in. to facilitate dusting and for
appearance sake. Fit these base pieces to place, mitering the joints.
Before fastening the parts to the chest proper, gauge a line 3/4 in.
from the lower edge and to a point 4-1/2 in. from each end, cut out to
this line and shape the base as shown in the drawing. Use finishing
nails for fastening the base to the chest. The heads should be "set" so
they may be covered later with a putty colored to match the finish.

In a similar manner plane up, cut and fit the back and hinge rails.
These rails should be kept a "scant" 1/8 in. below the top edges of the
chest proper. The overhang of the lid fits down over in such a way as to
form a dust-proof joint between lid and chest proper.

The overhang of the lid of 1 in. by 1-in. stock may next be mitered,
fitted and nailed to the lid. Thoroughly sandpaper all parts not so
treated and finish as follows: Put on all the oak pieces, two coats of
natural paste filler. This is best done before they are fastened in
place. Directions will be found on the cans in which the filler is kept.

The red of the cedar may be heightened by applying a mahogany stain made
of Bismark brown aniline and boiling water, in the proportion of 3 qt.
of water to 1 oz. of aniline. If applied hot the stain will enter the
wood better. When dry, sandpaper lightly with No. 00 paper, both this
and the oak-filled pieces.

Fasten the oak pieces in