f the frame. Plane down the
groove edge of the first board until the groove is out of the board, and
apply the board with 1-1/2 inches projecting beyond the frame. Leave a
little spare at each end of every board, and when the side is covered run a
tenon-saw across both ends of all the boards close to the frame, and
finish up with the plane. This is quicker and makes a neater job than
cutting each board to size separately.

[Illustration: FIG. 20.-Back of cycle shed.]

The Back (Fig. 20).--When laying out the frame for this, remember that
there is a bevel to be allowed for along the top, and that the height of
the frame at the front must be that of the back of a side frame. (See Fig.
21.) The boards should be cut off to the same slope.

Twenty-four boards should exactly cover the back. Cut the tongue neatly off
that last fixed, and glue it into the groove of the first board.

The Front.--The frame requires careful making. For details of corner
joints see Fig. 16. The 3-inch faces of the top and bottom bars are
vertical. The upper side of the top bar is planed off to the angle of the
slope. (Fig. 23.)

[Illustration: FIG. 21. Detail of eaves.]

The Doors (Fig. 22).--These are the most difficult parts to construct, as
the braces which prevent the front edges dropping must be carefully fitted
in order to do their work properly.

The eleven outside boards of each door are held together by two 4-inch
ledges 6 inches away from the ends, and one 5-inch central ledge. Allow a
little "spare" on the boards for truing up. Boards and ledges having been
nailed together, lay a piece of 4 by 1-1/2 inch batten across the ledges on
the line which the braces will take, and mark the ledges accordingly. Next
mark on the batten the ends of the braces. These project half an inch into
the ledges, and terminate on the thrust side in a nose an inch long, square
to the edge of the brace. The obtuse angle is flush with the edge of the
ledge. Cut out the braces, lay them in position on the ledges, and scratch
round the ends. Chisel out the notches very carefully, working just inside
the lines to ensure the brace making a tight fit. If there is any slackness
at either end, the brace obviously cannot carry the weight of the door
until the door has settled slightly, which is just what should be
prevented. Therefore it is worth while taking extra trouble over this part
of the work.

[Illustration: FIG. 22.-Doors of shed.]

Cautions.--Don't