may not be blocked.

While the glue is setting, cut out A, allowing an extra 1/16 inch of width
for fitting. The slot down the centre is best made with a fret saw, and
should be smoothed internally by drawing a strip of fine glass paper to and
fro through it. The length of the slot is of great importance. It must
reach to just that distance from the top edge which brings that edge flush
with the bottom of the box when the box is raised; and in the other
direction must permit the box to settle on to its foot, so that the match
lifted shall project above the box.

Work the edges of A down carefully (double-bevelling them if the notches
are V-shaped) till A will run easily, but not loosely, in the box. Then
cut out two slips, DD, and bevel them at the top to an angle of 45 degrees.
Put A in place and glue them on, taking care that the glue does not hold
them fast to A.

Pierce a small hole through DD, in line with the slot, and insert a pin.
Draw the box fully up, and see if the top of A sinks to the proper place.
If it projects a little, lengthen the slot a trifle.

Cut out the supports EE, finish them neatly, and glue them to A. Make sure
that the pin lets the box touch them.

Fix on the lid B with two pins for pivots, and fit a little catch made of
brass wire. To give extra security, drive ordinary pins, cut off to 5/8
inch, through the sides into fixed B, CC, and DD, and through EE into A.
This is an easy enough business if pilot holes are made with a very fine
awl or a tiny drill, and a small, light hammer is used. It now remains only
to go over the whole box with glass paper or emery cloth, and to glue a
diamond of coarse glass paper to one end for striking the matches on.

Note that the lid must not be opened when the box is down, as it would be
wrenched off its pivots.

XXXIII. A WOODEN WORKBOX.

The box illustrated by Fig. 181 was copied from an article of Norwegian
manufacture. Its construction is an extremely simple matter, provided that
one can get a piece of easily bent wood (birch, for instance), not
exceeding 3/16 inch in thickness, for the sides.

[Illustration: FIG. 180.--Showing how to draw an ellipse.]

[Illustration: FIG. 181.--Norwegian workbox.]

The bottom of the box is made of 5/16 or 3/8 inch wood, cut to an oval or
elliptical shape. To mark out an ellipse about 8 inches long and 5-1/2
inches wide--this will be a. convenient size--stick two pins into the board
5-1/8 inches apart,