Michael Angelo in Santa Croce; she saw the Venus, the "divine Raphaels."
The Peruzzi chapel had then recently been restored--some exquisite
frescoes by Giotto being among the successful restorations. The
"mountainous marble masses" of the Duomo, "tessellated marbles climbing
into the sky, self-crowned with that prodigy of marble domes," struck Mrs.
Browning as the wonder of all architecture.

The political conditions of Italy began to enlist her interest. In June of
1846 Pio Nono had ascended the Papal throne, preceded by a reputation for
a liberal policy, and it was even hoped that he would not oppose the
formation of a United Italy. The papal and the temporal government was
still one, but Pius IX was a statesman as well as a churchman. England had
especially commissioned Lord Minto to advocate reform, and the enthusiasts
for Italian liberty received him with acclaim. The disasters of 1848 were
still in the unrevealed future, and a new spirit was stirring all over the
Italian kingdom. Piedmont was looked to with hope; and the Grand Duke of
Tuscany had instituted a National Guard, as the first step toward popular
government. The great topic of the day was the new hope of Italy. In
Florence the streets and piazzas were vocal with praises of the Grand
Duke. On one night that Browning went to the opera the tumult grew
intense, and the Duke was escorted back to Palazzo Pitti with thousands of
wax torchlights and a blaze of glory and cries of "Eviva! Eviva!"
Browning, however, distrusted Pio Nono, thinking him weak, and events
proved that his opinion was justified.

The winter of 1847-1848 was passed by the Brownings in Casa Guidi. "I wish
you could see what rooms we have," wrote Mrs. Browning to her husband's
sister, Sarianna: "what ceilings, what height and breadth, what a double
terrace for orange trees; how cool, how likely to be warm, how perfect
every way!"

The poets were constantly engaged in their work. Mrs. Browning began her
long poem, "Casa Guidi Windows," and many of Browning's lyrics that
appeared in the collection called "Men and Women" were written at this
period. They passed much time in the galleries and churches. They drove in
the beautiful environs of Florence. The pictures, history, and legends
entered into their lives to serve in later days as poetic material. In the
brief twilight of winter days they often strolled into the old gray church
of San Felice, on which their windows looked out, where Brow