here stone
houses were scattered all over the landscape. We saw on our left the
large monastery of Delaling, and, a little way off, the Gomba of
Sibling. Describing a sweeping curve among rocks and bowlders, we
rounded the high, graceful cliff, on the top of which towered the fort
and monasteries of Taklakot.

Such was our anxiety, when we reached this point, lest something should
happen and we should be taken back again by another route, that as soon
as we were across the wooden bridge over the Gakkon River, Chanden Sing
and I, on perceiving the large Shoka encampment at the foot of the hill,
lashed our ponies and ran away from our guard. Galloping our hardest
along the high cliff, riddled with holes and passages in which the
natives live, we found ourselves at last among friends again. The
Shokas, who had come over to this market to exchange their goods with
the Tibetans, were astounded when they saw us. They recognized us with
great difficulty.

We inquired at once for Doctor Wilson. When we found him the good man
could hardly recognize us, so changed were we. He seemed deeply moved at
our pitiable condition.

When the news of our arrival spread in camp, we met with the greatest
kindness at the hands of everybody. In a corner of Wilson's tent was a
large quantity of candied sugar--several pounds. So famished was I that
I threw myself on it and quickly devoured the lot. Later, my Shoka
friends brought in all kinds of presents in the shape of eatables, and
Rubso, the doctor's cook, was set to prepare an elaborate meal.

The British Political Frontier Officer, Karak Sing, hurried to me with a
change of clothes. Other garments were given me by Doctor Wilson. My own
ragged attire was literally swarming with vermin. Our guard had not
allowed us a single change of clothes, nor would they even hear of our
washing daily. It was by a special favor, and merely on account of its
sanctity, that we were allowed to plunge into the sacred Mansarowar
Lake.

Later in the day my wounds and injuries were examined by Doctor Wilson,
who sent official reports to the Government of India.

Tenderly nursed by Wilson and Karak Sing, and having partaken of plenty
of good food, my spirits, which had fallen rather low, revived as by
magic. After a few hours of happiness, I was already beginning to forget
the hardships and sufferings I had endured. I remained three days at
Taklakot, during which time part of my confiscated baggage was retur