City and its environs since
1856. I have noted the change at each visit! The rolling prairie
has been checkered with streets and avenues, and the squares and
suburbs are dotted all over with residences, stores and workshops.
The landing, once a single pier, now extends miles along the Missouri
River. The border ruffians have disappeared with the Indians and
"greasers," and have been replaced by an active, intelligent and
prosperous community.

Mrs. Sherman and myself started in advance for Lawrence in an open
buggy drawn by one horse, and were told to follow the trail, and
this we had no difficulty in doing. We passed through one or more
Indian reservations, over as beautiful a country as the sun shines
upon, but without house or habitation, except Indian huts. We
arrived at Lawrence, a town less than two years old, and were
cordially received. The people there were fearing a raid by the
"border ruffians," but this was fortunately postponed until our
departure for Leavenworth.

The committee proceeded immediately to take testimony. Governor
Reeder acted in behalf of the Free State side, and General Whitfield
in behalf of the pro-slavery side, this being the conceded line of
demarcation between the opposing factions. The town was in embryo,
nothing finished, and my wife and I were glad to have a cot in a
room in the unfinished and unoccupied "Free State Hotel," soon
after burned to the ground by Jones, the marshal of Kansas, or his
deputies. There was no difficulty in obtaining witnesses or
testimony, but, as a rule, the witnesses on one side would only
testify in Lawrence, and those on the other in Lecompton or
Leavenworth. They were like soldiers in hostile armies, careful
to keep outside of the enemy's camp.

Dr. Robinson, afterwards Governor Robinson, was then by far the
ablest and bravest leader of the Free State cause. His history of
the Kansas conflict is the most interesting yet published. When
the committee visited Lecompton to take testimony, it was a surprise
to us that he not only offered, but insisted upon going to that
place, the headquarters and capital of the pro-slavery party. It
was then scarcely a hamlet, and its existence depended entirely
upon the success of that party. Dr. Robinson and I rode together
into the place. It was easy to see that he was not a welcome
visitor. Everyone but the committee carried arms. Several murders
and affrays had recently occurred, in regard to whi